Eden Rift: Where the past is present

I recently went out to visit another winery in San Benito County, where the wineries and the wines share a similar place in the world of California regions—we had a history of being leaders in winemaking going back to the 19th century, we are making a comeback and we are working to be rediscovered.

Thus I set out one Saturday to visit a San Benito County winery I had history with…It was 2020 and our new Assembly Member Robert Rivas held his 40th birthday party at a winery, Eden Rift Vineyards. That event and the wines were memorable so I had planned to return but just never got around to it, sound familiar?

I had never been to Eden Rift before that birthday event but vaguely knew it as Pietra Santa Winery behind DeRose Vineyards. 

These days Pietra Santa Winery is a name that lingers only in the history books as an unlikely man named Christian Pillsbury purchased Pietra Santa Winery in 2016. He was the unlikely buyer only because he had been interested in the Napa and Sonoma valleys before learning about the soils, climate and history of the Cienega Valley which was shared by Calera Wines, DeRose Vineyards and the then Pietra Santa Winery.

Christian felt the allure of having a vineyard in lands that had such history, both centuries old and recent. He set out to learn more about this place on Cienega Road. A place that was part of a vineyard with a 175-year history. A place that had to overcome years of neglect by corporate operators. A place that produced some of the best Pinot Noirs in the country where most would not expect it possible at all. 

He didn’t find much about the region’s history domestically but with much effort found better records were kept in the book stores and libraries in distant Europe. There were books with the history of ownership, production quantities and the varietals cultivated there in incredible detail. 

The Europeans respected and kept that history for us. Christian absorbed it all and now he sat in a chair looking so much like a man from another time sitting next to a fireplace in a room that oozed an early 20th century Craftsman style to share that extensive history with me.  

Even the room we sat in is within what was once simply a beautiful house with a history of its own. This house was designed by Walter Burley Griffin. Don’t recognize that name? Turns out Mr. Griffin was a partner of one of this nation’s most celebrated architects—Frank Lloyd Wright. This beautifully restored house, now tasting room, just drips with the classic craftsman details; it’s beautiful.

Here was Christian, looking so appropriately dapper, telling me about the history of the vineyard and the grounds. I’ve never felt this way before but there was a tangible aura of history which was fed by his many stories which helped paint a history as rich as the red Pinot Noir Cristian sipped as we spoke. 

First up, why the name Eden Rift Vineyards? History took center stage again, it was partially an homage to John Steinbeck’s “East of Eden.” Clearly we were east of the Eden Steinbeck wrote about but what about the rift? Well, if you read my earlier piece about DeRose Vineyards you might remember the San Andreas Fault runs right through the property—not just nearby but through it! 

Eden Rift Vineyards honors the art of great writing and the land. 

Eden Rift was once part of a single large vineyard started in 1849 which was more recently owned by a variety of large corporations, largely to the detriment of the vineyards. In 1988 it was split and purchased by the DeRose family and the Gimelli family which named its 500 acres Pietra Santa Winery, now Eden Rift.

As previously mentioned, Christian purchased the property for three reasons—climate, soil and history. We’ve covered history but it’s the climate and soil that flavor the wine. 

Josh Jensen of Calera Wine, considered to be the father of Pinot Noir in the U.S., had done exhaustive research and found the local climate was indeed great for wine grapes. 

At 1,600 to 1,800 feet in elevation it did not experience the oppressive heat of the nearby valleys and benefitted from the nearby coastal cooling at night which is so key to great grape growing. But the key to Josh Jensen’s success, and in large part Eden Rift’s success, is the soil type. Limestone is a key ingredient to growing the best Pinot Noir grapes, as grown in Burgundy, France, and Eden Rift shares the same strata of limestone as Calera Wine and their Pinot Noirs shine.

After Christian’s enlightening discussion I was highly encouraged to take a ride with Tasting Room Manager Barbara Fulton-Beadle to Buck Point. As we drove through the vineyards I saw the beautiful rows of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as well as some old vine Zinfandel but curiosity about my destination dominated. 

Buck Point overlooked the entire vineyard including the wonderful terraces used to moderate water use and climate. Barbara had brought a bottle of their award winning Pinot Noir and although I try to avoid drinking while researching I just couldn’t resist. 

Barbara told me about the vineyards and wines, but the conversation quickly turned to how this remote place made us feel. It was a cool day with a layer of clouds that allowed the sun to artfully highlight the Diablo Range to our east. 

It was silent and beautiful, much as it might have been hundreds of years ago when the first Europeans explored these valleys. It was a place to let go of the present and to feel that sense of history and peace and enjoy a truly special glass of wine. 

Almost 200 years ago European winemakers found this valley, the Cienega Valley. They were pioneers and they got it right. This was a great place to grow grapes capable of producing excellent wines with its mix of terroir and climate special enough to earn its own Cienega Valley AVA. It must be unique to earn its own AVA and it is.

I had been to the top of the mountain and seen 120 acres now under vines. I had seen the land with some of the oldest grape vines in California with Zinfandel vines from 1906. I had been to one of the oldest California wineries dating back to 1849 which introduced its Pinot Noir in 1860. 

I have been to a place where Pinot Gris has found some of its best terroir. I had been to an inland place committed to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and a small block of Pinot Gris and that old vine zinfandel. I had been to a place where those wines are now being recognized for truly fine craftsmanship and ingredients. 

I hope you find the time to take a break, sip some fine wine and let go of the present if even for a little while as you let the history wash over you. Please drink safely.

Eden Rift Winery is located at 10034 Cienega Road in Hollister, 831.636.1991. Visit their website at edenrift.com.