By now, most readers will know about a trend in California
cheese-making called
”
farmstead cheese.
”
The term brings to mind a farmer on his three-legged stool,
milking his cows and then taking the milk and cream to the farmer’s
wife.
By now, most readers will know about a trend in California cheese-making called “farmstead cheese.” The term brings to mind a farmer on his three-legged stool, milking his cows and then taking the milk and cream to the farmer’s wife. She, and her four or five bonneted children, will make the farmstead cheese with an old churn and wooden molds, probably in an old red barn with a few cats roaming around.
Well, OK, not exactly. Though the term is decidedly old-fashioned, the industry is new and modern. A farmstead cheese is an “artisan” cheese that must meet certain standards: it must be handmade in small quantities and it must be produced on the farm using only milk from the herd located on that farm. The farmstead producer, in other words, directs the entire cheesemaking process, from choosing the cow’s feed through final aging of the cheese.
In 1997, California had only three farmstead cow’s milk cheesemakers. Today, there are more than 20 producers. The American Cheese Society’s competitions and the U.S. Championship Cheese Contest in Wisconsin have both posted several California winners in the last several years, a dramatic change from the past.
Here are some brands to look for as you’re out shopping for great cheese:
– Three Sisters Farmstead Cheese
The Hilarides family makes this cheese from the milk of their Jersey cow herd in the San Joaquin Valley. Their “Serena” cheese is produced only at Three Sisters. It’s slightly yellow, mild and lightly salted, with a medium texture that’s good for slicing or grating.
– Cowgirl Creamery
Marin County is the home of a creamery that’s turning out beautiful cheese. They’re famous for their fresh cheeses, crème fraiche and fromage blanc, but those can be a little hard to find. Many gourmet shops carry their Mt. Tam soft ripened cheese, a firm and buttery cheese with an earthy mushroom flavor. It’s a triple cream and so smooth, available all year. In the fall, don’t miss the Pierce Pt. whole milk cheese which is washed in Muscat wine and rolled in dried local herbs. If you’re in San Francisco, visit the new Artisan Cheese Shop at Ferry Plaza, opened by the owners of Cowgirl Creamery. For more details, see cowgirlcreamery.com.
– Fiscalini Cheese
One of the newest farmstead cheese makers is located much closer to home. The Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company is located in Point Reyes, on the dairy farm the Giacomini family started in 1959. They produce the state’s first European-style blue cheese, called “Original Blue.”
If you’d like to try a farmstead cheese, look in specialty cheese shops or gourmet grocery stores like Draeger’s, Andronico’s and sometimes Trader Joe’s, although some supermarkets are giving indications that they will start carrying the smaller farms’ brands. Look for “farmstead cheese” on the label and the California Milk Advisory Board’s seal of approval. If your favorite market is not yet carrying farmstead cheese, ask for it. After all, consumers generally get whatever they’re willing to pay for.
Easy cheese hors d’oeuvre
This cheese recipe is a cinch to make, but gets rave reviews, says Sandra Blustone of Morgan Hill, who e-mailed it to me. Eat it outdoors on a deck and spear the delicacies off of a huge platter. Serve with sliced baguette rounds to mop up the balsamic sauce.
Aged Gouda with Balsamic Reduction
2 cups balsamic vinegar
8 tsp. sugar
12 small wedges of aged Gouda
12 tender spears steamed asparagus
Watercress or Italian flat-leafed parsley for garnish
– In small saucepan over high heat, bring vinegar to simmer. Continue cooking until vinegar is reduced to 1/2 to 3/4 cup. Whisk in sugar; set aside to cool. For each serving, put three spears of steamed asparagus and three wedges of aged Gouda on a plate (or serve as above from a large platter). Drizzle with balsamic vinegar reduction. Garnish with watercress or parsley.
Sunday recipe
These next two recipes come from Antonio Del Buono School’s cookbook, “Recipes as easy as ABC’s.” I especially like a section in the back of the cookbook called “Miscellaneous” because it contains recipes for things like bubble bath, “Dog Bones Even You Can Eat,” perfumed soap balls and a face paint recipe.
This first recipe is Karen Haas’ idea of a large piece of meat for a hungry crowd. The cooking time for this dish is 2 to 2 1/2 hours, so choose a lazy day like Sunday. Invite your family and/or friends to share. Serve over hot noodles.
Haas Beef Roast
3 to 3 1/2 lb. beef chuck pot roast
2 T. flour
2 tsp. beef bouillon
Dash or garlic powder
2 bay leaves
2 onions, sliced
1/2 cup catsup
1/3 cup packed brown sugar
1/4 cup lemon juice
– Trim meat fat and heat fat in skillet to get 2 T. liquid. Coat meat with flour and brown in fat liquid. Place in baking pan and add bouillon, 1 1/4 cups hot water and garlic powder. Place onions on and around meat. Cover and bake 1 1/2 hours at 325 degrees. Remove bay leaves. Mix catsup, brown sugar, and lemon juice and pour over beef. Cover and bake 30 to 45 minutes more.
I also like the sound of this next one: Million Dollar Pasta. The ingredient list is short and the ingredients – feta cheese and Greek olives – are some of my favorites. This recipe is from Armida Villalobos.
Million Dollar Pasta
2 to 3 lbs. Roma tomatoes
8 oz. Feta cheese, crumbled
1 bunch fresh basil, washed and torn
4 to 5 cloves garlic, chopped
25 Greek olives, pitted
1 lb. penne pasta
Balsamic vinegar
Olive oil
– Core, seed and dice tomatoes into a large bowl. Add the cheese and basil; mix gently. Add olives, garlic, 1/4 cup olive oil and a few splashes of balsamic vinegar. Stir to coat all ingredients. Let stand 20 to 30 minutes while you cook the pasta. Drain pasta and return to cooking pot. Toss the sauce into the hot pasta; cover and let stand about 5 minutes before serving.
End note
“Man cannot live by bread alone. But woman can.” ~ Victoria Estern
Happy cooking!
