The southern region of France, stretching along the
Mediterranean Sea from the Pyrenees Mountains in the east, to the
border of Italy on the west, is a style of contrast
– in history, wines and terrior.
The southern region of France, stretching along the Mediterranean Sea from the Pyrenees Mountains in the east, to the border of Italy on the west, is a style of contrast – in history, wines and terrior.
I learned more about this contrast at a recent gathering with friends. Of course, this gathering had to have food present in order to assist us with the comprehension of the subject.
We started the meal with an assortment of appetizers and rose wines. Rose wine can be made from any red grape, the winemaker determining its flavor profile from the grape being used and the amount of time the skins have contact with the fermenting juice. Rose wine is underrated, economical and a perfect start to almost any meal.
The first rose was a 2006 Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhone Domaine L’Attilon. Vin de Pays, or country wine, has similar popularity like Beaujolais, but recently was given the distinction of being a superior table wine. This wine was light, refreshing and layered with strawberries. This is an organic wine that sells for $9.
A 2006 Vin de Pays d’Oc Domaine Begude followed shortly. While the first rose was made from a blend of cinsault and Grenache, the Begude was made from the pinot noir grape. Cherries, strawberry and a hint of cream were the strong focus of this wine. Nice minerals and wonderfully priced at $13.
We munched on a nice assortment of hors d’oeuvres, including herbed goat cheese, chopped tomatoes with olive oil and salt; sliced coppa and salami; raw radishes and carrots; almonds, oil-cured black olives with thyme, crackers and crostini. The simplicity of the snacks worked well with the simplicity of the wines.
We also enjoyed a 2006 Chateau Segries “Tavel.” Grenache, cinsault, clairette and syrah come together to form a wine so brilliantly pink it could be the name of a crayon!
The most complex rose we enjoyed was a minerally 2005 Chateau Simone Palette grand cru from Provence. This well-known producer has helped put rose on the world wine map. The price is $30 per bottle.
As dinner was being prepared, our resident rabble-rouser of the group was getting excited about the upcoming wines. This lucky fellow had the honor of choosing our next few wines to be served with the main course. “Get ready for a full-blown Bandol war!” he exclaimed, grabbing three different Bandol wines from the case. When asked why he chose three Bandols and ignored the other wines, he said, “I remember when I traveled to Bandol (a city in the most southeastern part of France.) I can still taste those wines!”
While most wines in the Provence area are rose, the Bandol appellation counters with very approachable red wines that are mostly comprised of mourvèdre. The soils in this area vary greatly from hillside to hillside, but the weather is benign enough to ripen the grapes to perfection. Most Bandol wines will start hitting their stride after seven years – which is why our Bandol junkie chose three wines from 1999.
The first, and the one that ended up being my personal favorite of the evening, was a 1999 Domaine Tempier “Cuvee Speciale”. This wine had “wow” factor – the first word I said after my first sip. Another person commented how this wine “did not dominate, but complements.” Comprised of great fruit, with a bit of earthiness, it had a finish that was elegant. Newer vintages run $29.
The nice thing about dinner and wine gatherings is that you can compare tastes and understand why a certain palate may prefer something different than yours. The Bandol junkie also proclaimed he was “a dirty kind of guy.” I did not seek an explanation, for I was too scared to ask, but assumed he meant his preference for earthy, rustic wines. His favorite ended up being the 1999 Domaine de la Tour du Bon “St. Ferreol.” This wine had a hint of spice, but was quite earthy with lots of mineral components. The fruit was present, but restrained. The Ferreol runs $42 for newer vintages.
The main course consisted of butter-flied leg of lamb, marinated for a short time in lemon juice, wine, balsamic vinegar, crushed garlic, Dijon mustard and herb-flavored olive oil.
Stalks of fresh rosemary were thrown onto the coals to impart those flavors via smoking.
The side dishes included grilled vegetables, a colorful medley of red onions, yellow peppers, whole Roma tomatoes and asparagus. These were served along side steamed Yukon gold potatoes with a butter-parsley lemon glaze and toasted baguette slices.
Next week, we will look at wines from southern Rhone, Languedoc and even a wine from Corsica.
Cheers!
