Port wines are made with unique styles and variations.
Understanding the wide variety of ports and their labeling can be
confusing. Port wine can basically be broken down into four
categories: vintage, tawny, ruby and white.
Port wines are made with unique styles and variations. Understanding the wide variety of ports and their labeling can be confusing. Port wine can basically be broken down into four categories: vintage, tawny, ruby and white.
Vintage ports account for only two percent of all the port wine made, but often are considered the best and are the most expensive. A vintage port must be made from grapes of the same vintage. They may come from different vineyards, often allowing the house-style to be expressed in the wine through the blending techniques. This port is aged briefly in wood, must be bottled within two years of harvest and then spend years maturing in bottle – sometimes over 50 years. Rule of thumb dictates that vintage ports should not be served until a minimum of 15 years of ageing has occurred, although that does not mean the wine cannot be consumed prior. Vintage ports are only made in “declared” years, which means that particular year’s grapes are considered superior and worthy of the “Vintage Port” label. Vintage port from a single vineyard, or quinta, are wines made from the best vineyards, but not in declared years. These wines are considered excellent, but not quite as good as their classic, blended counterparts.
Tawny ports are made from blends of grapes over several years and aged in wood for varying lengths of time. Tawny port gets its name from the golden, mahogany color that comes from the time spent in barrel with gradual exposure to oxidation. A tawny port may be basic, with no specific age stated. The only age statements that are legally permitted for tawnies are 10-, 20-, 30- and 40-year old ports. These levels indicate the minimum amount of time spent in barrel. Usually tawny ports become paler in color, drier and more aromatic as they get older.
Ruby ports are generally made from lower-quality batches of wine. Most get a couple of years of aging in barrel before they are bottled. These ports are drinkable from the moment they are bottled and will not improve with bottle aging. Ruby ports get their name from their bright red or crimson color. These wines are delightfully sweet and fruity.
White ports are made from white grapes and are produced in much lower quantities that ruby or tawny ports. They come in two varieties, dry or sweet. The dry version undergoes a longer period of fermentation, which converts more of the residual sugar into alcohol. This style is traditionally served as an aperitif.
I again consulted my friend, Owie “The Port Authority” Popescu, to share with me his favorite styles of port.
“I mostly enjoy ports after dinner. Ports leave an awesome, satisfying finish on my palate. I like sharing ports with my friends – it helps relax the mood and creates great conservation,” Owie said.
If one were to throw a port tasting party, I asked Owie how he would plan it. “I would start with a late harvest Muscat or white port and then move up to the tawnies – 10, 20 and so forth.
Then I would go to the vintage, ruby and late bottle-vintage (LBV) for last.”
“My absolute favorite style of port remains the tawny. I like the Sandeman 20-year port ($40), which has a sweet honey-almond taste to it.” Owie recommended the 30 or 40 year old Sandeman, which runs about $90, for a special evening. “Sip a bit of this silky smooth port on a cold winter evening, in front of a fireplace with that special someone – you’ll get double the flavor!”
The Maduro, imported and produced by Sonoma Valley Portworks, blends two distinct ports, including a 17-year old tawny, to create an orange and caramel laced wine ($25).
For dessert pairings, Owie recommends a 20-year old tawny to go with crème brulee or a Grand Marnier souffle, milk chocolate and nuts. “Vintage or ruby ports, because of their bigger styles, go better with dark chocolate, fruit tarts, Stilton bleu cheese, English cheddar and heavier desserts,” Owie said.
For good measure, you can throw in some nice, light bodied cigars like Ashton, Macanudo or Arturo Fuente to end the evening.
Port should be served between 64-68 degrees. If too warm, the alcohol becomes volatile and rises quickly up the glass into your nose. Serve port in traditional port glasses. Happy New Year and best wishes for a joyous 2007!
Cheers!
David Cox is a wine enthusiast and executive director of St. Joseph’s Family Center in Gilroy. He can be reached at wi**********@***oo.com.
