In a town probably most known for its Mission, antique shops and
Mexican restaurants, executive chef Doug Kerschner III has brought
fine ingredients, stylish presentation and upscale Italian cuisine
to San Juan Bautista at Don Ciccio’s Restaurante.
In a town probably most known for its Mission, antique shops and Mexican restaurants, executive chef Doug Kerschner III has brought fine ingredients, stylish presentation and upscale Italian cuisine to San Juan Bautista at Don Ciccio’s Restaurante.
Don Ciccio’s recently re-opened and has created new buzz among local foodies. We decided to dine there with our longtime friends “Mr. & Mrs. C.” and an out-of-town guest for a well-deserved night out without their newborn. We were seated immediately with menus at a round comfortable booth and I was delighted to see a local delicacy waiting on our table, a bottle of olive oil pressed from the orchards of Pietra Santa winery. Our high expectations quickly fizzled as we waited – and waited – with empty water glasses for someone to reappear with the bread for that tempting dipping oil. We were puzzled because the dining room didn’t seem full or at all busy at the time.
When our server did present himself, we had the whole menu, which consisted entirely of al a carte items, memorized. We politely asked for a round of water and he quickly disappeared again before we could add that we were also desperate for a bottle of wine. Waters were finally delivered along with a bundle of baked specialty breads and breadsticks. At that point we ordered a bottle of 2001 Dolcetto from Pietra Santa ($24) for which we also had to endure a wait. The wine was a familiar favorite at our table and when it did arrive it worked wonders for our mood. Despite the beginning hiccups, the rest of our meal was well paced.
We ordered one of the evening’s specials, an artichoke appetizer for $8. They were sliced lengthwise and served perfectly grilled without being too mushy and were filled with a delicious and savory sausage mixture. I have never had artichokes prepared this way and it was a treat.
Our salads were all presented beautifully. My salad was a romana classico ($7) with diced romaine lettuce tossed in a Caesar-like dressing with a few sliced grape tomatoes and topped with two full anchovies and toast-size croutons. The salad was cool and crisp and the dressing was extremely flavorful. The toasts and anchovies were too salty for my palette so I gave them to my husband, who happily gobbled them up.
Most of the entrees on the menu were served with comforting starches such as polenta or mashed potatoes. I ordered the Gamberoni con Risotto ($19), which contained deliciously plump shrimp nestled on a layer of risotto with bits of roasted corn. The risotto was a soothing compliment to the gentle saltiness of the shrimp. The entree was served on a square plate framed by perfectly placed spears of fresh roasted asparagus. It was a lovely combination and I cleaned the plate.
My husband ordered a 16-ounce Porterhouse Steak ($28) served in a mustard emulsion with quartered potatoes. He intended to order the steak without the mustard but once he tasted the flavorful filet, he was glad he forgot the request. The mustard added a wonderful flavor and I savored the bite he offered me. Other winners at our table included the rack of lamb with polenta for $24 and the Filet mignon for $27.
The meals were nicely portioned, leaving room for dessert. My husband and I split the tiramisu ($6). It was prepared a bit differently with thick creamy layers that tasted similar to a cheesecake. I kept a watchful eye on the intriguing hazelnut gelato that arrived in front of Mr. C. His wife was ingenious enough to order the Truffles and Spumante ($10). I must have misinterpreted the item when I read it on the menu because I was surprised and envious when her small bowl of chocolate truffles arrived accompanied by a beautiful flute of sparkling wine. I thought my dessert would pair nicely with a cup of after-dinner coffee, but by the time my cream arrived and I took a sip, my coffee was ice-cold and there was no one in sight to ask for assistance. Once again, our table was left to fend for itself.
After careful consideration, I’ve determined that the lack of service could have easily been eliminated by having a bus-person on hand to bring bread, water and clear plates. While the cuisine was impressive and the atmosphere gave the appearance of fine dining, the level of service distracted from the experience and the magnificent food. If they could step up the service, Don Ciccio’s definitely could have staying power and four-star potential. Buon appetito.
Jane Dough was raised in Gilroy and returned after graduating from California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo. She enjoys cooking, caring for her husband and three small children, and dining out every chance she gets. Reach her at sl*******@***oo.com. All reviews for The Dish are anonymous, and all reviewers’ meals are paid for by South Valley Newspapers.
