I have learned, through many years of dining out, that some of
the best restaurants are located in the oddest places. Sure enough,
there is a gem in Hollister that’s tucked away a busy strip mall
between a large office-supply store and an auto parts shop.
I have learned, through many years of dining out, that some of the best restaurants are located in the oddest places. Sure enough, there is a gem in Hollister that’s tucked away a busy strip mall between a large office-supply store and an auto parts shop.
On a very warm recent Friday evening, my husband and I found De Maggios Cafe to be a small, quaint respite from the heat of the day and the busyness of our work week. Upon entering, you get the immediate feeling that you’re in a local Italian cafe that is light and open, with nicely spaced tables, street scenes adorning the walls and delicious smells wafting out of the kitchen. We immediately began to relax.
The ownership of this restaurant recently changed hands and, while DeMaggio (yes, there really is one!) is no longer there, the new owner, David Perdue, is doing a nice job of keeping the traditions alive while adding his own touches.
We were taken immediately to our seats, and our water glasses were filled. Fresh, warm Francese bread brought to our table. Since the menu dictated a certain style of dining (on the “nicer” end of the scale), I was disappointed that the butter came in little foil-wrapped packets. As the butter softened throughout the meal, opening these little guys became more difficult.
Our waited greeted us quickly, but before he asked if we would like anything to drink, he launched into the specials for the evening. It would have been a little nicer had that process been reversed. He was very personable, however, and knowledgeable about the food and wine.
We started our meal with a glass of Firestone Sauvignon Blanc. I’ve seen this wine priced at $7.50 per glass in other restaurants, so I was very pleased when the menu read $5 per glass. This was a perfect accompaniment to our appetizer, Chilled Artichoke with Garlic Aioli ($6.95). The presentation of this dish was lovely and the dipping sauce was nicely done, but the artichoke itself was somewhat underdone and the tips of the leaves were brown.
The menu offered a wide range of choices, many of which sounded so delicious that it was hard to decide. My husband chose one of his favorites, Steamed Crab Legs and Grilled Filet Mignon ($38.95), which was one of the evening’s specials. I chose the Braised Lamb Shanks with De Maggio’s “Famous” Garlic Mashed Potatoes ($17.95). All meals came with soup, green salad or Caesar salad. The house salad was a very nice mixture of crisp spring lettuces with shaved carrot and just enough dressing. My husband pronounced the New England Clam Chowder “delicious” – high praise from him.
The meal was nicely paced, and our entrees arrived right on time. The lovely smells wafting from our hot plates promised a delectable dinner, and we were not disappointed. Our mouths dropped open when we saw the crab legs on my husband’s plate. The long legs were filled with succulent meat, and the simple drawn butter was all that this tasty crustacean needed. The only problem was that the legs were as prickly as a rose stem, and our fingers were sore trying to work with them.
The filet tasted like they smell when they cook – rich and smoky. My Braised Lamb Shanks were falling-off-the-bone tender, just as they should have been, and they retained that unique lamb flavor that sometimes gets lost in over-braising. The Garlic Mashed Potatoes were perfect to absorb the au jus, which, the waiter told me, had been blended with a demi-glace. A nice mix of sauteed fresh vegetables completed this platter.
We had chosen a bottle of Leal Merlot ($35) – from one of our favorite local wineries – that nicely accented both of our entrees.
We really were too full for dessert, but – in the interest of providing a comprehensive review – we forced ourselves. My husband, a chocolate fanatic, ordered the Chocolate Mousse ($6.25). Presented in a martini glass, it was only a step above chocolate pudding, and we both felt it lacked richness. At the recommendations of both our waiter and the woman dining at the table next to us, I ordered the Bread Pudding ($6.25) and was glad I did. This warm, moist – almost creamy – dish was spiked with fresh raspberries that had been cooked with it.
If DeMaggio’s were closer to our Morgan Hill home, it would definitely become a “regular” on our dine-out circuit. For Hollister residents, I recommend this lovely cafe for a special dinner and for your catering needs as well. Bon appetit!
Sara Leigh has lived in Morgan Hill for 26 years with her husband and two sons, who are now away at college. She loves food and wine, and keeps all the delicious calories in check by avid race-walking. Reach her at ca*******@*****il.com. All reviews for The Dish are anonymous, and all reviewer’s meals are paid for by South Valley Newspapers.
