It’s garden question and answer time again! You may e-mail me
questions at ga*******@*ps.net, or you can mail me questions in
care of this newspaper. For a faster, personal response, please
include a self-addressed, stamped envelope.
It’s garden question and answer time again! You may e-mail me questions at ga*******@*ps.net, or you can mail me questions in care of this newspaper. For a faster, personal response, please include a self-addressed, stamped envelope.
Q: I’m in a preemptive mood here. How do I care for my poinsettias? I’ll like them to last as long as possible.
– K.D., Gilroy
A: Thanks for the great timing on your poinsettia question. First of all, use common sense. This means water regularly, about twice a week. At the same time, don’t let the pot “sit” in excess water. Always empty the saucer, or water your poinsettias outside to let the pot drain before bringing it indoors.
While I’m on the subject, never leave your poinsettias outside, because one night of cold weather will do them in. Also, don’t place your poinsettias near obvious heat sources, such as televisions or fireplaces. Placing them near a cool window where they will also get natural sunlight would be best.
Finally, I always repot my poinsettias into larger pots. If you buy a 6-inch poinsettia, repot into an 8-inch pot with some fresh potting soil; if it’s a 4-inch pot, repot to a 6-inch pot. These simple tips should keep your poinsettia looking good well into February.
Q: I can’t get the hang of combining plants when planting in containers. Good combinations seem to happen by chance. Do you have any advice that might help? – R.S. via e-mail
A: There is no secret to pleasing plant combinations. You’ll get better with experience, so keep on experimenting. I seem to have success when making sure I have varying plant heights. For instance, I might have a taller snapdragon in the rear of the container, with a medium-sized plant next like a petunia and a trailer like alyssum, lobelia or bacopa along the outside edge.
I also pay attention to foliage. Contrasting leaves usually combine well, such as spiky leaves or the silver-gray of dusty miller. Keep trying!
Q: We purchased several bare-root fruit trees last weekend along with a number of other plants. We got everything planted except for the fruit trees. Is it necessary to get them in the ground right away, or will they keep for a while? – P.G., Hollister, via e-mail
A: It’s very important that you don’t allow the roots to dry out. The easiest thing to do is to “heel them” in as follows: Lay each tree on its side, dig a shallow hole for the root system, and cover the roots with moist sawdust, peat moss or even damp soil. Your fruit trees should be good indefinitely, but I would try to get them planted within a few weeks. If they start leafing out, you’ve waited too long!
