My dog, Ruckus, was appropriately named. In the 10 years we have
been together, he has been through many adventures and seemingly
has more lives than most cats.
My dog, Ruckus, was appropriately named. In the 10 years we have been together, he has been through many adventures and seemingly has more lives than most cats.
Recently, his curiosity with all things brought him into contact with a skunk that had wandered through the vineyard where I live. Needless to say, Pepe LePew got the better of Ruckus.
As I sit writing this column, it is not writer’s block that is my greatest enemy. It is the overwhelming odor of skunk that continues to linger everywhere that prevents me from concentrating on the task at hand. A concerned friend, Lisa DeSilva, called to check in on how “Stinky” was doing. Then she inquired if Ruckus was doing OK, too.
Some things that are joined together, like my dog and his name, make sense to me. Other things that are joined together make no sense to me.
For example, the Winter Olympics just finished this past week. I am not a big Olympic Games fan, but I do watch an occasional event. The event that perplexes me the most is the biathlon. This event combines cross-country skiing and shooting a rifle. I don’t get it. Skiing and warm fires, I get. Skiing and hot tubs, I get. Skiing and – well, I won’t get too salacious here.
We know that wine and food go well together. One way to greater appreciate the pairing is to incorporate wine into the actual cooking process. There are many ways that one can do this, but first, a few basic suggestions.
Under any circumstance, do not use a store-bought cooking wine. This is very low-quality wine that has no other value on the market. It is infused with loads of salt and often artificial ingredients that actually hinder the flavors of food – flavors that a good wine used in cooking is supposed to bring out. If you have store-bought cooking wine in your cupboard, dump it right now!
A common school of thought says that “if you wouldn’t drink it, don’t cook with it.” This is true. You should not reach for the cheapest bottle of wine, nor should you be deglazing a pan with expensive Bordeaux. Julia Child said, “If you do not have a good wine to use, it is far better to omit it, for a poor wine can spoil a certain dish and utterly debase a noble one.” Thoughtful experimentation through trial and error will help you find an optimum compromise – a wine that is inexpensive but tastes pleasant.
The alcohol in wine will start to evaporate at 172 degrees Fahrenheit. Water boils at 212 degrees. Hence, if you deglaze a hot pan with wine, and other liquids are present, more alcohol will evaporate than water. Depending on the length of time you let the wine reduce, there could still be a percentage of alcohol remaining. Extending the reduction time or cooking time will decrease the amount of alcohol.
If a recipe calls for wine to be used, it is almost always added while the food is being cooked or simmered. Adding the wine too late in the preparation may impart harsh, acidic qualities to your food. Start with what the recipe calls for, but do not hesitate to make adjustments to taste. Like any seasoning, too much wine can overwhelm a dish, and too little becomes inconsequential.
When cooking with wine, think about the food you are preparing. A recipe may call for white wine. Knowing the characteristics of a certain wine will help you choose what type of wine to use.
If the dish is light but mixed with lots of fresh herbs, a nice sauvignon blanc would match well because this wine often has those herbaceous notes.
A butter-based or cream sauce would go together with a chardonnay, a slightly heavier white wine that has these same aromas and flavors. Chardonnay is also perfect as a base for the classic beurre blanc sauce.
Wine can be used as a marinade for meat and fish. Again, think about what flavors the meat will impart, and match that with a wine that complements the food.
The alcohol and acid in the wine help soften the tough fibers in meat, which causes the meat to cook faster and absorb the flavors in the wine. The remaining marinade can be used as a reduction sauce for the meat or vegetables.
I’ll check in with my friends and fellow columnists Elizabeth Gage and Mitch Mariani to see if we can concoct a few delectable recipes using wine in a future column.
Cheers!
Bottle of the Week
Kirigin Cellars, Gilroy
Wine: Recently released 2004 chardonnay
Price: $14.90 per bottle
Why: Crisp apple, full-bodied, not too oaky, and fruity.
Where: The wine can be purchased at the winery, 11550 Watsonville Road in Gilroy. The tasting room is open from 10am to 5pm daily. Call (408) 847-8827.
