Mitch Mariani

Local wild salmon season is in full swing. With the increase in salmon’s popularity, the methods for preparation have increased as well. This week, I present a unique and elegant salmon preparation well-suited for a dinner party or an individual.
The fish counters at many supermarkets are currently featuring fresh wild salmon caught off the California coast. One of the supermarkets I frequent offers fresh-caught salmon for about $20 a pound. It also offers a previously frozen version for about $8 a pound. Since any fish fresh off the boat is preferred over previously frozen fish, it tends to command a higher price. However, previously frozen salmon still offers excellent quality.
The ultra high price for fresh salmon can be avoided if you catch it yourself. Until my mom passed away a few years ago, she and my dad would go out on salmon fishing excursions with a select group of people from the South Valley. They set out from Morgan Hill before dawn to board the charter boat headed into the Monterey Bay.
An early return time would mean the boat’s passengers caught their limit, while returning later in the day most likely meant a few disappointed anglers. On those late returns, my mom was usually all smiles because more often than not, she caught her limit. On the other hand, my dad would sometimes “get skunked”—as mom put it—returning without any salmon. A successful outing led to fresh salmon for dinner the next evening. The rest of the fish would be shrink-sealed and saved for later meals, essentially becoming “previously frozen.”
This week, I present a recipe from Bay Area chef Joanne Weir. Her simple method for Salmon and Spring Vegetables Baked in Paper is not only simple to make, but quite healthy too. It is also the perfect time to make this salmon recipe since all the vegetables used are in season. In the instructions, it says to cut the parchment paper or foil into a heart shape. Although this makes for a nice presentation, if you choose to use a rectangular shape, it will not alter the cooking time or method.
Salmon and Spring Vegetables Baked in Paper
From Joanne Weir, “Cooking Confidence, Dinner Made Simple”
Serves 6
Ingredients
3 small carrots, peeled and cut into one-inch pieces on the diagonal
6 salmon fillets (6 ounces each)
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1 lemon, thinly sliced
1 small bunch asparagus, cut into one-inch pieces on the diagonal
1 cup sugar snap peas, strings removed
12 sprigs tarragon
1/4 cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
Step 1: Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the carrots and simmer for three minutes. Drain and set the carrots aside.
Step 2: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut six pieces of parchment paper (or foil) in the shape of a heart, about 20 inches across at the widest part of the heart. Brush liberally with olive oil. Place one piece of salmon on half of the heart and brush the top of the fillet with more olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and place two slices of lemon on each fillet.
Divide the carrots, asparagus and snap peas evenly among the six parchment hearts, scattering them on top of the salmon. Place two tarragon sprigs on each fillet. Sprinkle a tablespoon of white wine on top of the fish and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Step 3: To seal each parcels, fold the heart in half and begin by folding and creasing the edges to enclose the salmon and vegetables. Continue folding the paper down over itself until the parcel is completely enclosed.
Step 4: Place the parchment parcels on a baking sheet and into to oven until well puffed, about 15 minutes. To serve, place one parchment parcel on each plate and snip the center open with scissors.

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