In a world of fad diets and low-fat foods, the major pork producers in America have, over the last 60 years or so, reengineered the tasty hog.
It started shortly after WWII when the American housewife was looking to feed her family at a lower cost and offer “healthier” choices. Rather than spend hard-earned money on what looked like more fat than meat—which was the case with less expensive pork cuts—the well-intentioned housewife made alternate choices that would change the course of pork for decades.
In a knee-jerk reaction to falling sales, The National Pork Board introduced an ad campaign in the early 1970s known as, “Pork, The Other White Meat,” which added to the already gluttonous image of pork. After generations of breeding out good fat, Americans were left with a dry, tasteless, uninspired product.
But the good news is education and research have shown that the current state of huge feedlots, where swine are crowded in and fed animal byproducts, steroids and antibiotics, does not provide a healthier alternative. While delivering an ultra-lean meat, the commercially raised hog has lost many of its natural health benefits.
I have longed for that delicious pork I remember as a young boy, most of which was coming from local farms breeding what are now known as “heritage” hogs. The tender, juicy, flavorful chops that my grandmother would dredge in olive oil and bread crumbs, then bake in the oven and serve with simple mashed potatoes and string beans sautéed with garlic were my favorite—a winner every time!
Now, that savory pork I so fondly remember is available at Rocca’s Market in San Martin. Rocca’s has been a family-run landmark, 90-odd years at the same location. Dan Rocca, grandson of the store’s founder, Julius, runs the register and knows just about everyone in town. Rocca’s Market has had its ups and downs over the years, but has found a new niche of late. With the addition of Dan Keith, general manager and meat connoisseur, Rocca’s is rockin’ the high-end meat scene. Keith, a San Martin native, grew up on a farm a half-mile from the store and has loved it all his life. It’s no wonder he finally joined the staff as general manager and head butcher.
Which brings me to the point: Rocca’s now carries Coleman Farms All Natural heritage pork among many other great choices. I have to say this pork will make your mouth water. Beautifully marbled, handsome, thick-cut loin chops, baby back ribs, handmade sausage—they have it all!
As a local chef, I had the opportunity to meet with Keith when he hand-cut four generous chops for me to prepare for this article. I immediately thought of Grandma’s recipe of course, and I put my own flair on it. Here is the recipe for these fabulous pork chops made with sweet cherry peppers and vinegar.
Chef Steve Caposio, aka Chef Capo, is a South Valley chef passionate about good food. Visit him online at chefcapo.com.
Ingredients
Four 1 to 1½-inch thick Hampshire pork loin chops trimmed at upper rib portion (frenched)
¼ cup olive oil + 3 tablespoons for sauté
½ cup each seasoned flour and fresh bread crumbs
One 16-oz. jar picked sweet Italian cherry peppers
½ cup white cooking wine
½ cup of low sodium chicken stock
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons Wondra or slurry of flour/corn starch
Salt & Pepper
Chives for garnish
Preparation
- Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
- Remove peppers from jar, reserving the juice.
- Clean by removing seeds and stems.
- Lightly coat chops with olive oil.
- Mix seasoned flour and breadcrumbs in a shallow bowl.
- Dredge chops in mixture until coated.
- Place in pre-heated skillet and cook over medium heat until golden brown, turn and repeat.
- Remove chops from skillet and place in baking pan.
- In same skillet add trimmings from chops and sauté until fat is rendered and a fond develops.
- Deglaze with wine and cook until wine is reduced by half.
- Add chicken stock to wine reduction.
- Add cleaned peppers and pickling juice.
- Simmer on medium 20 minutes or until peppers are slightly softened.
- Add 2 tablespoons unsalted butter.
- Add slurry until sauce coats back of spoon.
- Pour mixture over chops, cover with foil and place in 375-degree oven.
- Cook for 40–50 minutes or until internal temperature reaches 160 degrees.
- Garnish with finely sliced chive or parsley.
