Mitch Mariani, David Cox and I have collaborated, as we did at
Christmas, on a dinner menu for Valentine’s Day.
The centerpiece of the menu will be Mitch’s grilled filets of
beef with peppercorns. You want to be able to give the grill your
full attention, so those precious morsels are pulled off the heat
at just the right moment.
Mitch Mariani, David Cox and I have collaborated, as we did at Christmas, on a dinner menu for Valentine’s Day.
The centerpiece of the menu will be Mitch’s grilled filets of beef with peppercorns. You want to be able to give the grill your full attention, so those precious morsels are pulled off the heat at just the right moment. The rest of the meal includes dishes that can be made in advance or are flexible in the time they can be made.
David’s wine recommendations complement our food suggestions for a festive and romantic Valentine’s Day meal. To see David’s recommendations, see the end of this column.
Last year I included a few suggestions for making the occasion special, and I think a couple of them bear repeating:
1. Music If possible, make a mix tape or CD – or a playlist on your iPod or computer – of a variety of music that you both enjoy. Vary the tempos and moods, perhaps starting with upbeat tunes that lead into the romantic and nostalgic.
2. Lighting This is the time for candles. Use votives on the table, and place more votives and pillar candles of varying heights around the room to provide a soft background. Avoid using overhead lighting, but put on a few peripheral lights so it doesn’t look like you’re planning a seance.
3. Dinnerware Pull out your “good” china and cutlery, if you like it. If you don’t, pick up a couple of place settings of something you do like at a discount store or even a thrift store. Get away from what you use every day, and use tableware that feels festive and special. If you are planning to serve more than one wine, round up separate glasses for each. An array of glassware on the table really adds sparkle.
4. Flowers You may expect a dozen or long-stemmed roses, but always have a plan B. If you have bulbs blooming in your yard, rescue them from the snails and slugs and bring them inside before they fade away. Or, buy bunches of something you like at a supermarket. As with the candles, keep the arrangements on the dinner table low so they don’t get in the way of conversation.
Now, here’s the menu:
Starter
– Asparagus with Wasabi Mayonnaise Dip
Main Course
– “Three Heart” salad
– Mitch’s grilled filets
– Green peas (Use frozen petite peas and cook while the filets are grilling)
– Golden potato wedges
Dessert
– Amazing Mousse
Asparagus with Wasabi Mayonnaise Dip
(from the Gourmet Cookbook, edited by Ruth Reichl, Houghton Mifflin, 2004)
Serves 2 with extra dip
Approx. 1/2 bunch thin to medium asparagus, trimmed (about 6 stalks per person)
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1 tsp. soy sauce
1/3 tsp. sugar
1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1/2 tsp. wasabi paste or powder
Step 1: Blanch asparagus in a large skillet in boiling salted water for about 1 minute. Transfer gently to a colander and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking. The asparagus should be bright green and still crunchy.
Step 2: Whisk together the remaining ingredients in a small bowl until sugar is dissolved.
To serve, arrange asparagus on small plates and serve dip in a communal bowl. Both the asparagus and the dip can be prepared up to a day ahead and refrigerated separately, covered.
“Three Heart” Salad
from Whole Foods Market
1 package hearts of romaine
1 can hearts of palm
1 can or jar artichoke hearts (not marinated)
Bottled Caesar dressing
Step 1: Tear about half the romaine hearts into bite size pieces. (Reserve remainder for another use.)
Step 2: Drain the hearts of palm and artichoke hearts and cut into bite size pieces.
Step 3: Combine in a salad bowl. At serving time, toss with dressing.
Golden Potato Wedges
(from the Gourmet Cookbook, edited by Ruth Reichl, Houghton Mifflin, 2004)
serves 2
1 lb. (3 to 4 medium) boiling potatoes such as Yukon Gold.
3/4 Tbs. olive oil
1/4 tsp. salt
pinch freshly ground pepper.
Step 1: Put a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat oven to 425 degrees. Oil a large baking sheet with sides.
Step 2: Peel potatoes and cut each lengthwise into 6 wedges. Toss potatoes with oil, salt and pepper in a bowl, then arrange flat sides down in one layer on oiled baking sheet. Roast until undersides are golden, about 30 minutes.
Step 3: Turn potatoes over onto other flat side with a spatula or tongs and continue roasting until undersides are golden and potatoes are almost tender, about 10 minutes more.
Step 4: Turn the oven off and let the potatoes continue to cook and stay warm while you grill the filets.
Amazing Mousse
(adapted from Cook’s Country Magazine)
This recipe achieves a delicious airy texture without the use of eggs.
Serves 6 (extras are great the next day)
3/4 cup milk
4 cups (about 1/2 bag) mini marshmallows
3 oz. bittersweet chocolate cut in small pieces, or chocolate chips
1 small carton (8 oz.) heavy cream
1 tsp. vanilla extract
optional: fresh raspberries or wafer cookies for garnish
6 6-oz. cups, ramekins or goblets
Step 1: Combine milk, marshmallows and chocolate in a microwave-safe bowl and heat in microwave on high heat 1 1/2 minutes; remove from microwave and whisk. Repeat in 1 1/2 minute increments until marshmallows and chocolate are completely melted.
Step 2: Place bowl containing chocolate mixture in a larger bowl full of ice and let stand, whisking often, until mixture is cool and thickened, 15 to 20 minutes.
Step 3: Using electric mixer, beat cream and vanilla until cream just holds stiff peaks.
Step 4: Fold chocolate mixture into whipped cream, leaving a few streaks. Spoon into dessert cups or goblets and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or up to two days.
If you like, garnish with fresh raspberries or wafer cookies.
And now for David’s wine recommendations …
For the first course, the asparagus is blanched. This means the full color and flavor of the vegetable will be present. The mayonnaise dip is combined with wasabi, that spicy green mustard we have come to love with sushi. For revealing the asparagus and keeping the wasabi in check, I would recommend a great wine from Calera, their 2004 viognier for $36. It is slightly sweet with some peach and honey.
The green salad, with its vegetables and Caesar dressing, would stand out against something sweet. You could serve some champagne, but a great reisling would fit nicely. Two that I like a lot for flavor and price: Mann Cellars 2005 Johannisberg reisling and the Solis 2005 Johannisberg reisling, both around $12.
The cracked pepper filet mignon that Mitch is cooking up would go great with a V. Sattui 2002 Henry Ranch merlot at $29. This merlot is smoky, peppery and has a nice finish. I was introduced to the Sattui Winery in Napa by some friends who are wine club members. The catch is that sales are only done through the tasting room at Sattui or online.
Finally, dessert! I love chocolate mousse, especially one with bittersweet chocolate. Most people think of cabernet sauvignon at this juncture, but I would recommend trying something a bit different. A nice madiera would work nicely here. Broadbent’s 10-year Malmsey madiera, $39, is sweet, richly concentrated and chocolatey.