An Italian Joy

Risotto is a creamy, delicious comfort food
It used to seem that travel books about Italy always talked about the wonders of risotto,  the rice dish made by slowly cooking the grain with broth. Most recipes I looked at either sounded laborious, involving long hours (I imagined) standing over a simmering pot, stirring and waiting.

Then, on a tour of Sicily, I  tasted well-made risotto and suddenly understood what the fuss was about.

This risotto was rice and mushrooms, and the flavor was so delicious and the texture so intriguing, so enjoyable on the tongue, that our table was reluctant to go on to the next course. We asked the waiter to leave the serving bowl on the table so we could continue to enjoy the risotto through the rest of the meal.

According to cookbook author and food historian Clifford A. Wright, risotto may have evolved from “minestra di riso,” a rich rice soup that has been documented as being served to ambassadors to the Doge at the court of St. Mark’s in Venice in the 15th century.

Even though I had my risotto epiphany in Sicily, rice is more traditionally a northern Italian preparation, especially since the flat marshy lands around the Po River Valley are ideal for rice cultivation.

Italian rice, including the varieties Arborio, Carnaroli and Vialone Nano, is a short-grain rice with a distinct ratio of the two main kinds of starch found in rice. With a higher proportion of amylopectin, a starch that gelatinizes when cooked, and a “chalky” center that retains its bite when cooked, these varieties of rice provide the characteristic creaminess plus the “al dente” chewiness that is sought after in a good risotto.

Arborio is the Italian rice most often found in the United States. If you want to try risotto and can’t find Arborio rice, other medium- or short-grain rice is an acceptable substitute. These rice varieties will become creamy when prepared as risotto but will lack that inner crunch.

The basic formula for risotto involves three elements besides the rice: a “soffrito” made of finely chopped aromatic vegetables, or at least onion; flavorful broth; and finishing ingredients such as meats, cheese or mushrooms.

My inspiration for investigating risotto was the recipe for Risotto with Peas and Prosciutto from the Gourmet cookbook, edited by Ruth Reichl. Here is what she had to say about the dish and some traditions:

“The inspiration for this risotto is the soupy dish called ‘risi e bisi’ (rice and peas), which is Venetian in origin and is traditionally eaten on St. Mark’s Day, April 25, when the first local peas appear in the Rialto market. We call for frozen baby peas (unless fresh peas are REALLY fresh, they can be too starchy), and we eat this year-round. We stir in some prosciutto for depth (pancetta will work well too) and a bit of lemon zest to perk things up.”

Risotto with Peas and Prosciutto

5 cups chicken stock or store-bought low-sodium broth

1/2 stick (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter

1/2 cup finely chopped onion

1 1/2 cups (about 10 ounces) Arborio rice

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 cup frozen baby peas, thawed

2 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch wide strips

1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

2/3 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus additional for serving

3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Step 1: Bring stock to a simmer in a medium saucepan; reduce heat, cover and keep at a bare simmer.

Step 2: Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a 3- to 4-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 to 4 minutes.

Step 3: Add rice and cook, stirring for 1 minute. Add wine, bring to a simmer, and simmer, stirring, until it is absorbed.

Step 4: Add 1 cup stock and cook at a strong simmer, stirring constantly, until it is absorbed. Continue adding stock, about 1/2 cup at a time, stirring constantly and letting each addition be absorbed before adding next, until rice is tender and creamy-looking but still al dente, 18-20 minutes (there will be leftover stock).

Step 5: Stir in peas, prosciutto, lemon zest, cheese, parsley, remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and salt and pepper to taste. If necessary, thin risotto with some of remaining stock. Serve immediately with additional cheese.

Here, from MarthaStewart.com, is a version much like the one I enjoyed in Sicily.

Wild Mushroom Risotto

Serves 4

If you prefer a more subtle mushroom flavor, omit the dried mushrooms, and add 2 more ounces of fresh mushrooms.   

6 to 8 cups homemade chicken stock, or canned low-sodium chicken broth, skimmed of fat

1/4 ounce dried wild mushrooms, such as porcini

9 ounces assorted fresh wild mushrooms

7 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cup finely chopped shallots

1 cup Arborio or Carnaroli rice

1/2 cup dry white wine

4 to 6  tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for grating or shaving

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Step 1: Heat stock in pan over medium heat. Add dried mushrooms; cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon; chop finely. Keep stock at a simmer over medium heat.

Step 2: Remove stems from fresh mushrooms; chop finely. Slice caps 1/4-inch thick. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add mushroom caps; cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and soft, about 3 minutes. Transfer to bowl. To pan, add remaining 6 tablespoons oil, mushroom stems and shallots. Cook, stirring, until translucent. Add rice; cook, stirring, until rice begins to sound like glass beads, 3 to 4 minutes.

Step 3:  Add wine. Cook, stirring, until wine is absorbed by rice. Using a ladle, add 3/4 cup hot stock to rice. Using a wooden spoon, stir rice constantly, at a moderate speed. When rice has absorbed most but not all of liquid, and mixture is just thick enough to leave a clear wake behind the spoon when stirring, add another 3/4 cup stock.

Step 4: Continue adding stock in this manner, stirring constantly, until rice is mostly translucent but still opaque in center. Continue cooking until rice is al dente but not crunchy. As rice nears doneness, watch carefully; add smaller amounts of liquid. The mixture should be thick enough that grains are suspended in liquid and has the consistency of heavy cream. The risotto will thicken slightly when removed from heat.

Step 5: Add dried mushrooms and mushroom caps; warm over low heat. Remove from heat. Stir in butter and Parmesan; season with salt and pepper. Divide among four bowls; grate Parmesan over risotto. Serve immediately.