I do not know if it is a good trait, but my palate is easy to
please. The other day, I went to Starbuck’s with a friend to grab
something warm to drink to combat the chill of the morning.
I do not know if it is a good trait, but my palate is easy to please. The other day, I went to Starbuck’s with a friend to grab something warm to drink to combat the chill of the morning. This is what she ordered and how she ordered it: One grande gingerbread, non-fat, extra hot, extra nutmeg, three pumps, no whip, leave room-at-the-top latte. If my count is correct, that was a 26-syllable order. When I went to the window, my order was two syllables – coffee. The barista was so tickled by my simple order, especially since it came on the heels of the 26-syllable tongue twister, that he gave me a large cup instead of the small cup I ordered!
Some folks that have followed my column have inquired if I ever taste or buy wine that does not satisfy me. The answer is yes, but much more often than not, I like a wide variety of styles and varietals.
One style of wine that I have just started to scratch the surface on is port. So far, the play on words “any port in storm” is working for me.
Port is fortified wine whose history began in the Duoro Valley of Portugal during the 17th century. In the late 1600s, Britain declared war on France. Since the Brits had been dependent on wine from France, they had to find a new source or trading partner to fill the gap – so the Brits turned to Portugal.
One of the challenges for the Brits was getting the wine to Britain before it spoiled. The journey down the 560-mile Duoro River took a while, so in order to stabilize the wine, a bucket or two of brandy was added to preserve the wine in barrel. Port actually gets its name from the city of Oporto, which lies at the mouth of the Duoro River.
Many port-style wines are made in other countries, including Australia, South Africa and the United States. In some countries, only the genuine product from Portugal can be called Port. In the United States, according to a treatise with Portugal, the Portuguese product must be labeled Porto or Vinho do Porto.
The world’s first official demarcated wine region was the Duoro Valley. There are few who would disagree that this region is also the most difficult wine growing region. There is very little soil to be found in the mountainous region and temperatures are ones of extreme. The dry summers can get up to 110 degrees F and the winters can dip the mercury below 0 degrees F. The rocky, hard schist has little nutrients and retains very little water. The roots of the vines have to penetrate the fissures of the terrain to depths of 60 feet in order to find water.
Port wine or port usually has higher alcohol content than most wines, due to the fact that distilled grape spirits, like brandy, are added to fortify the wine and halt the fermentation process. By halting the fermentation process, some of the sugar is not converted to alcohol – leaving a sweeter, heavier and richer wine.
The person most responsible for introducing me to wonders of port wine (and other spirits) is my good friend, Ovidiu “Owie” Popescu. Owie is originally from Romania, where cultural traditions often allow children to enjoy a sip of brandy or sweet wine before a meal to stimulate the appetite. Some of these wines, like the popular Muscat Otonel, are homemade from late harvest varietals.
“I think port is becoming more and more popular for people as a replacement for dessert or to accompany dessert after a meal. Port is a spirit that is relatively unknown and people have little experience with sweet wines or spirits after a large meal,” Owie said.
Port is almost always served at the end of the meal, unless it happens to be a white port, which is chilled and served as an aperitif.
Intowine.com had this quote, which I thought was perfectly stated, “Ports create their own leisurely pace. It has a warm, calming effect. It has been called the “wine of philosophy.” This velvety, rich wine is not for fast drinking, but demands contemplative sips that stimulate conversation among the company of friends.”
Red port can be made with many types of grapes, including tinta roriz, tinta cão, tinta barroca, touriga Francesa and touriga nacional. White ports use white grapes, including malvasia, rabigato, folgasão, verdelho and viosinho.
Tune in next week when we explore port and food pairings and learn more from Owie, whom I have christened the “port authority.”
Wishing everyone the merriest Christmas and happiest holiday season!
Cheers!
David Cox is a wine enthusiast and executive director of St. Joseph’s Family Center in Gilroy. He can be reached at wi**********@***oo.com.
