About three months ago, my wife Libby and I, along with two
other couples, visited Saint Clar, France. Saint Clar, the capital
of white garlic, lies in the heart of the Lomagne region, an area
north of the Pyrenees Mountains between the Atlantic Ocean and the
Mediterranean Sea. Saint Clar also happens to be a Sister City of
Gilroy.
This week’s wine column features a guest columnist, longtime Gilroy resident Kai Lai.
About three months ago, my wife Libby and I, along with two other couples, visited Saint Clar, France. Saint Clar, the capital of white garlic, lies in the heart of the Lomagne region, an area north of the Pyrenees Mountains between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. Saint Clar also happens to be a Sister City of Gilroy.
Twenty-six years ago, Gilroy sent a contingency to Saint Clar to observe their Garlic Festival, but sadly, over time, the two cities lost touch with each other.
The Gilroy Sister Cities Association decided to reactivate the relationship. The board was able to establish contact with them and secure an invitation to be their official guests at their Garlic Festival.
After arriving, we took a drive through the rural countryside of the Armagnac region of France, in the county of Gers. The Mediterranean climate there is temperate and mild, very similar to that of the central coast of California. Saint Clar is a small village with about 1,000 residents.
The Garlic Festival of Saint Clar is a one-day event where the whole village gathers in the town square to socialize, enjoy music, eat and drink. We were immediately impressed with the friendliness of our hosts. During our four-day visit, we enjoyed excellent food and wine on a continuous basis, including traditional daily offerings of duck breast, pâte and foie gras.
A unique beverage that I liked was an aperitif called Floc de Gascogne. It is a fortified wine with an alcohol content of about 17 percent. There are two main varieties: Floc de Gascogne Blanc and Floc de Gascogne Rose. Rules apply to the production of this wine. Floc must contain a blend of grapes, come from the same Armagnac estate and be stored for a minimum of 10 months in the vineyard’s cellar. It can be sold only after the Appellant d’Origine Floc de Gascogne bestows approval.
I was told by our host and translator, Paul Kendall, that Floc is best when enjoyed within one year of production and is usually served slightly chilled. It also is the local custom to pour the wine into a seeded muskmelon half. Besides an aperitif, Floc de Gascogne can also be served as a late afternoon thirst quencher.
The reception for the Gilroy delegation took place at the home of Saint Clar’s mayor. It was there that he mixed three parts Floc rose with one part sparkling wine. The mayor showed us a new way to open a bottle of sparkling wine. Standing in his garden with the bottle pointing up, he used a knife to cut the restraining wire and knock off the cork stopper with one swift stroke. We were all very impressed, so much so that one of us tried to emulate his skills and broke the neck off the bottle. Do not try this at home!
The folks from Gers also claim the tradition of producing one of France’s oldest brandies, Armagnac, dates back to the 14th century – some 200 years before Cognac. Some claim that the name Armagnac derives from Herreman, a knight who was granted a fiefdom in Gascogne by Clovis, France’s fifth century king.
In 1909, Armagnac was designated an appellation through a decree that recognized its extraordinary soil and production techniques.
The production process of Armagnac differs from Cognac. Armagnac is distilled only once and at a lower temperature than Cognac, thus allowing Armagnac to retain more of the fruit’s character. You can typically enjoy the aromas and taste of dried fruits, flowers, apricots and licorice.
While Armagnac may be one of the oldest spirits in France, it was originally consumed for its therapeutic qualities. A 14th century treatise on medicine found at the Vatican states “the wine enlivens the spirits, and if partaken in moderation, recalls the past to memory, renders men joyous, preserves youth and retards senility.” What more could you ask for? This may lend credence to the belief that moderate consumption of Armagnac favors the good health and long life of the residents of Saint Clar.
Legend has it that France’s King Henry IV had Armagnac and garlic placed on his lips by his grandfather on the day he was born. He is said to “have drawn wisdom and strength for his whole life” from that experience. Although Armagnac is outsold by Cognac at a ratio of 10 to 1, it is available if you look for it.
Maybe it would be a great idea to take the advice of King Henry IV and enjoy our garlic with Armagnac. Visiting and getting to know our Sister Cities is an honor and something our fair city should do more often.
Cheers!
