The Time for Pumpkin Pie is Upon Us

The traditional finale to the Thanksgiving feast, in most
families, is pumpkin pie. I love it, and I’ve shared my recipe for
it before.
The traditional finale to the Thanksgiving feast, in most families, is pumpkin pie. I love it, and I’ve shared my recipe for it before.

For many people, including myself in the past, a recipe for a pie’s filling was almost irrelevant because of the obstacle of making pie crust, which is fearsome and daunting to some. True, you can buy refrigerated crusts, but they just aren’t as good.

Making traditional pie crust is one of those skills that can be described and taught, but can only really be learned through practice. Many recipes don’t help, because while they are cautioning against using too much flour or over-handling, which could make the crust tough, you are only hoping the massive blob stays together long enough to get it in the pie pan.

There are many variables, such as the type of fat, the moisture content of the flour, the temperature of the water and even the temperature of the kitchen, that can make creating a traditional flaky pastry crust either easy or an intractable mess.

My original plan was to assemble some alternative crust recipes using cookie crumbs and such. Then I realized I had never seen a recipe for a traditional pumpkin pie (which must be baked in an unbaked crust) using one of these recipes.

So I’ve included my favorite traditional crust recipe, along with hints on making it work, a couple of recipes for non-traditional crust, and a pumpkin pie recipe that actually does use a graham cracker crust.

The pastry recipe I use most often, since I find it simple and reliable, is from the old (1961) edition of the New York Times Cook Book by Craig Claiborne.

Basic Pie Pastry

(Pastry for two single-crust pies)

2  cups sifted all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

2/3 cup shortening (sometimes I use vegetable shortening; other times, lard)

1/3 cup cold water, approximately

Step 1: Sift together the flour and salt.

Step 2: Using a pastry blender or  two knives, chop in the shortening until  the mixture resembles coarse cornmeal.

Step 3: Sprinkle water slowly over the top of the flour, while tossing the mixture up from the bottom of the bowl with a fork. After about 3/4 of the water has been added, press the dampened part of the dough into a ball and set aside. Add only enough water to dampen the remaining flour mixture. Press all the dough together and divide into two portions. If the kitchen is hot, chill the dough for one-half hour before rolling.

Step 4: For each pie, place one ball of dough on a lightly floured pastry cloth or board, pat in all directions with a floured rolling pin and then roll from the center out in all directions, loosening the pastry and reflouring the cloth and rolling pin as necessary. Roll into a round 1/8 inch thick and two inches larger in diameter than the top of the pie pan.

Step 5: Fold gently into quarters, place in the pan and unfold. Fit the dough into the pan loosely and press against the pan without stretching it. Trim the edge slightly larger than the outside rim of the pan and flute the edge.

Step 6: Add the desired filling and bake as directed (say, on the back of the pumpkin can).

This works for me almost every time, and is also good for double-crust fruit pies.

If the rolling and placing still seems to scary, here is an oil pastry which a friend, who makes wonderful pie, swears by. I, however, have never been able to maintain my nerve through the process. To each her own.

Easy Oil Pastry

(From the Better Homes and Gardens New Cookbook. Makes 1 piecrust)

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup cooking oil

3 tablespoon milk

In a medium bowl, stir together flour, sugar, and salt. Add oil and milk all at once to flour mixture. Stir lightly with a fork. Form into a ball. Press dough firmly onto bottom and up sides of a 9-inch pie plate. Fill and bake as directed.

Press-In Crust

(From marthastewart.com. This crust requires no rolling; just blend the dough, and press it into the pan.)

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for fingers and measuring cup

1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces   

1/3  cup sugar   

1/4 teaspoon salt

Step 1:  Pulse flour, butter, sugar, and salt only until moist crumbs form.

Step 2: Transfer dough to a 9-inch round tart pan with a removable bottom; with floured fingers, press evenly into bottom and up side of pan.

Step 3: With a floured dry-measuring cup, press edge of dough firmly against side of pan, pushing down with opposite thumb to level top of crust flush with rim.

Step 4: Freeze until firm, 10 to 15 minutes; prick all over with a fork. Fill and bake as directed.           

Pumpkin Pie with Graham Crust & Candied Pepitas (pumpkin seeds)

(Makes 1 pie)

1 small sugar pumpkin, halved, or 1 1/2 cups canned solid-pack pumpkin

Graham Crust made with pepitas

3 large eggs, lightly beaten

3/4 cup packed light-brown sugar   

1 tablespoon cornstarch   

1/2 teaspoon salt   

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

Pinch of cayenne pepper   

Pinch of ground clove   

1 1/2 cups evaporated milk  

Candied Pepitas

Step 1: Preheat oven to 425 degrees. If using fresh pumpkin, roast pumpkin, cut side down, on a rimmed baking sheet until soft, 50 to 60 minutes. Let cool completely. Discard seeds. Scoop out flesh, and transfer to a food processor; process until smooth. Set aside 1 1/2 cups puree (freeze any remaining puree in an airtight container up to 1 month.)

Step 2: Preheat oven to 350degrees. Press crust mixture into bottom and up sides of a 10-inch metal pie plate. Freeze 15 minutes. Bake crust until dry and golden brown, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack; let cool completely. Reduce oven temperature to 325degrees.

Step 3: Whisk pumpkin and eggs in a bowl. Stir together brown sugar, cornstarch, salt, and spices in another bowl. Whisk into pumpkin mixture. Whisk in evaporated milk. Tap firmly on counter to release air bubbles. Let stand 20 minutes.

Step 4: Place cooled crust on a rimmed baking sheet. Pour in filling. Tap to release air bubbles. Bake until set, 45 to 55 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack; let cool completely. Sprinkle with pepitas. Serve at room temperature or chilled.

Graham Crust

(Makes enough for one 9 or 10-inch single crust pie. For the pumpkin pie substitute 1/4 cup finely ground toasted pepitas for the wheat germ.)

2/3 cup all-purpose flour   

1/4 cup finely ground toasted pepitas    

3 tablespoons wheat germ

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon  ground cinnamon   

1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened

1/3 cup packed light-brown sugar

Process flours, pepitas, salt, and cinnamon in a food processor to combine. Add butter and sugar; process until dough holds together. Use immediately.

Candied Pepitas

(Makes about 2 cups)

6 ounces pepitas   

6 tablespoon sugar

1 large egg white, beaten

Pinch of coarse salt, plus more for seasoning   

Pinch of ground allspice   

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Preheat oven to 350°. Stir together all ingredients in a bowl. Spread mixture in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with parchment. Bake until pepitas are golden and slightly puffed, about 10 minutes. Season with salt. Stir gently, leaving some clumps. Transfer to a bowl; let cool completely. Pepitas can be stored in an airtight container up to 3 days.

Elizabeth Gage is a writer who lives in Hollister. She can be reached at ee******@***oo.com.