By Ramune Ambrozaitis and Mary Anne McCarthy
It’s all about glitter, gold and embellishments this year in the
high-powered fashion houses showcased at Italy’s premiere fashion
show. During the week of Sept. 27, 2004, our own fashion
correspondent jockeyed for positions to view and photograph some of
the world’s top designers on some of the world’s top models who
worked their magic on throngs of reporters, celebrities and Italian
citizens.
By Ramune Ambrozaitis and Mary Anne McCarthy
It’s all about glitter, gold and embellishments this year in the high-powered fashion houses showcased at Italy’s premiere fashion show. During the week of Sept. 27, 2004, our own fashion correspondent jockeyed for positions to view and photograph some of the world’s top designers on some of the world’s top models who worked their magic on throngs of reporters, celebrities and Italian citizens. Seated next to other publications such as Elle and Vogue magazines, Ms. Ambrozaitis sought to bring the South County closer to what’s hot in the fashion world and get you started on searching for elements of the styles locally.
New on the scene in Italy was the opening of the 16,000-square-foot store of Polo Ralph Lauren. Located at 4 Via Montenapoleone (the Rodeo Drive of Milan), Lauren showcased his Spring/Summer 2005 designs in the four-story, 19th-century palazzo-inspired building and created an American presence as the first American designer to move into the traditionally dominant Italian style.
More than just models parading down the catwalks, Milano Moda Italiano is the result of inspiration from the art world translated into the manufacturing of fabrics and textiles, cascading down into design (interior and exterior), then culminating into the designs of fashion. Somewhere in the art world the artist’s eyes have been drawn to the Caribbean for color, the gypsies for embellishments, Africa for animal markings on the fabrics, and India for gold and sequined sari-inspired flowing gowns. The designer’s palette included muted neutral tones such as sand and coconut brown, and dominant colors such as sea green, turquoise, azure blue, mustard, coral and splashes of terracotta. Textures were created with the use of ruffles in layers, embroidery, crocheted materials, feathers, fringe, suede and python skins. Many times the embellishments included nearly all of these on one piece!
Designer Gianfranco Ferré invitees enjoyed his gorgeous new headquarters with projections of jungle foliage and animals on the darkened walls. Ferré’s models displayed the flowing African-inspired, shear gowns off the shoulder with chunky bracelets embellished with amber stones or a more tribal animal bone look. One look not appreciated by Ms. Ambrozaitis was a trend toward Bermuda shorts with Ferré creating to the knee lengths with an unflattering hanging crotch. We will wait this one out.
The casual line of Blumarine known as BluGirl set the tone for the exotic island vacation. Mustard and turquoise dominated the palette and gold, gold, sequins and gold. Can’t have enough gold! Jewel encrusted daytime shoes where seen on almost every catwalk. More redheaded models were moving the audiences than ever before, accentuating the sparkle and colors. (Hair stylists take note: stock up on the red hair dyes).
Sicilian Antonio Marras’ show began with the sound of water (something familiar to an island boy) and fish swimming across the backdrop. The models emerged from a watery world in waves of white cotton and sweeping draperies. Two favorite designers of our correspondent were Guerriero and Antonio Berardi for their use of colors, and expressions of youthful, fun fashion. Their designs moved the fashion forward by not displaying the “same old stuff.” Most of the sparkles on fabrics were the result of a collaboration of designers (such as Berardi) with Swarovski crystals. Swarovski had teamed up with a half-dozen designers to provide the jewel encrusted phenomena seen everywhere in Milan. Boots have surfaced in the Spring/Summer fashion as gaucho style in pale colors, slouchy with short skirts.
It hasn’t taken long for Los Angeles designers to begin pushing the spring fashion trends as our West Coast climate offers the opportunity to wear the lightweight fabrics first. Designer Tracy Reese has already shown gold, sequined trimmings in daytime wear. Carmel boutiques Paloosh (on the corner of Ocean and Dolores) and GBG (court of the fountains on Mission and 7th) just received shipment last week of the casual, glittery tops so popular in Milan. Paloosh also carries a favorite designer of the stylish mom and the largest seller of Juicy Couture. Known as the uniform de jour, these exercise outfits easily go from pilates to picking up the kids from school and even have optional rabbit fur lined sweatshirts.
As Milan has shown to us, don’t be afraid to shine and glitter this spring and summer and seek out the Afro-Caribbean, Indian and gypsy style.
Ciao for now.
