From Old Jim Jack to Mohammed, We All Appreciate Mustard

Quotations and parables on the mustard seed abound, mostly
having to do with the small size of the seed.
Quotations and parables on the mustard seed abound, mostly having to do with the small size of the seed.

“I tell you the truth, if you have faith as small as a mustard seed, you can say to this mountain, “Move from here to there” and it will move.”

– Matthew 17:20

“He will not enter hell who hath faith equal to a mustard seed in his heart; and he will not enter Paradise who hath a single grain of pride, equal to a mustard seed, in his heart”

– Mohammed, prophet of Islam

And according to Zen Master Seong Hyang, “the mustard seed has been used metaphorically in Buddhism, too … Sometimes our Buddha-nature … is very, very tiny … So you start right now. You don’t think of yourself as being bad or good … Simply regard yourself as having that seed.”

Locally, the legendary Jim Jack, a Chinese agriculturalist who settled in San Juan Bautista in the 19th century, is reputed to have made a fortune by gathering the seed from the wild mustard that grew in all the fields, living frugally in the small cabin that bears his name, and sharing some of the rest with local children.

Of  course, there are seeds tinier than the mustard seed, but it seems to have captured philosophers’ attention for its ability to grow abundantly, and, in culinary terms, to provide a lot of flavor and other benefits from that tiny package.

Even though we are mainly aware of the seeds, the plant itself belongs to the brassica family, the family of broccoli, cauliflower, kale, rutabaga and other healthy vegetables.

So it’s no surprise that mustard, even consumed in small quantities, is good for us. It contains isothiocyanates, a type of phytonutrient that may have anti-cancer properties, as well as the minerals selenium and magnesium which have been shown to be powerful anti-inflammatories.    

In France, a pot of mustard typically sits between the salt and pepper on cafe tables and is used on dishes from steak (and fries) to “choucroute garni,” the Alsatian concoction of several types of pork, sausage and sauerkraut. Could its ubiquity be another factor in the “French Paradox,” whereby the French seem able to eat richly yet stay healthy?

In this country, mustard has also traditionally been a condiment: good old yellow for hot dogs and burgers, and somewhat  fancier Dijon-style for those picnics out of the trunk of the Bentley. It has found its way into other dishes, however; notably, honey-mustard salad dressing.

Here are some other ways to incorporate the warmth of mustard into your meals.

Perfect Mustard Vinaigrette

(From MarthaStewart.com; Makes 1-1/3 cups)

Extra-virgin olive oil yields a flavorful, rich vinaigrette. If you prefer a lighter-tasting vinaigrette, try using vegetable or canola oil.

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard    

1/3 cup champagne vinegar, or other mild-flavored vinegar such as rice-wine vinegar     

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil    

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt    

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, plus more to taste

 Step 1: In a small bowl, whisk mustard and vinegar together. Slowly add oil in a steady stream, whisking constantly until all the oil is added and dressing is creamy and emulsified. Add the salt and pepper; season with additional salt and pepper if desired.

Apricot Mustard

(From MarthaStewart.com; Makes about 1 cup)

This recipe has a sweet-hot flavor that is good with roasted meats.

4 ounces dried apricots    

4-1/2 teaspoons yellow mustard seeds

4-1/2 teaspoon brown mustard seeds    

2 tablespoons ground mustard    

1/4 cup distilled white vinegar    

1/4 teaspoon coarse salt

Step 1: Mix apricots, mustard seeds, ground mustard, and 3/4 cup water in a bowl. Refrigerate, covered, overnight. Put mixture in a food processor. Add vinegar and salt; puree. Can be refrigerated up to 1 week.

This recipe, from Gourmet magazine, features two kinds of mustard, Dijon-style and coarse grain’  as well as the complimentary flavors of capers and dill:

Mustard Chicken and Orzo Casserole with Dill and Capers

(4 to 6 servings)

3 cups chicken broth

1-3/4 pound skinless boneless chicken breast halves

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3/4 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons coarse-grain mustard

3 tablespoons drained bottled capers, rinsed

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/4 to 1/2 cup chopped fresh dill

1/4 cup sour cream

6 celery ribs, cut diagonally into 1/4-inch-thick slices

1 cup orzo (rice-shaped pasta)

Step 1: Bring broth to a simmer in a 4-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat. Add chicken and simmer very gently, turning once, 6 minutes total. Remove pan from heat and cover, then let stand until chicken is just cooked through, about 15 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate to cool and keep broth warm, partially covered.

Step 2: Melt butter in a 2- to 3-quart heavy saucepan over low heat, then add flour and cook roux, stirring, 3 minutes. Add warm broth all at once, whisking, and simmer gently, whisking occasionally, 10 minutes. Whisk in cream and simmer, whisking occasionally, 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in mustards, capers, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and dill (to taste).

Step 3: Transfer 1/2 cup sauce to a small bowl and stir in sour cream to make topping.

Step 4: Shred chicken with your fingers and stir together with remaining sauce in a large bowl.

Step 5: Preheat oven to 350 F.

Step 6: Cook celery in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender, about 8 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a bowl of cold water to stop cooking and return cooking water to a boil. Drain celery in a colander and add to chicken mixture. Cook orzo in same boiling water until just tender, then drain in a sieve.

Step 7: Stir orzo into chicken mixture, then transfer mixture to a 2 1/2- to 3-quart flameproof gratin dish or shallow casserole dish (1 1/2 to 2 inches deep; not glass) , spreading evenly. Spoon sour cream topping over top and spread evenly. Bake, covered with foil, in middle of oven until heated through and sauce is bubbling around edges, 25 to 30 minutes.

Step 8: Preheat broiler.

Step 9: Remove foil from dish and broil about 3 inches from heat until top is speckled with brown spots, 3 to 5 minutes.

Cooks’ note:

Casserole can be assembled (but not baked or broiled) 6 hours ahead and cooled, uncovered, then chilled, covered with foil. Let stand at room temperature 15 minutes before baking.

Elizabeth Gage is a writer who lives in Hollister. She can be reached at

ee******@ya***.com











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