Cycles have a special way of progressing back to the beginning. Summer is around the corner, but when the record-breaking hot days are upon us, we long for the cooler days of winter. When we have winter upon us, we look forward to the warmer and sunnier days of summer.
Likewise, in the past few weeks, I came to the realization that my appreciation for sauces has come full circle.
Until recently, my family enjoyed a well-known steak restaurant in San Jose for many years. It was the place where we would celebrate momentous occasions such as birthdays and anniversaries. Although we do not visit it anymore – its service and quality declined, and the prices increased – I consider it the epicenter of where my appreciation for sauces was born.
Unfortunately, a small steak was not on the children’s menu, but a very good children’s hamburger was. Made from high-quality ground beef, the burger was charbroiled just like the steaks.
Looking back, I remember how my “gourmet” sensibilities started at that young age. It was the fist time I was introduced to a well-known brand of steak sauce. Many children of my same age range would turn their noses at the idea of adding a strange sauce to their hamburgers, but I relished the idea of it. I would prepare my hamburger with onion, tomato and lettuce. As the final touch, the steak sauce would grace the hamburger. As I took the first bite, a little smile would come to my face.
After a few years, I outgrew the steak sauce. Actually, I tried it on a hamburger a few months ago. I couldn’t stand it.
In my early teen years, I became a purist. A good grilled steak didn’t need a sauce. A sauce masked the natural flavors of the meat and the grilling process. My new feelings didn’t apply just to grilled steaks, but all forms of meat. I never added gravy to my turkey or roast beef, and I didn’t care much for au jus either. Marinades were the exception to the rule, since many of them acted as flavor enhancers instead of camouflage.
Just a few years back, my feelings about sauces evolved again. After my family oven roasted some beef, I decided to take some of the pan drippings and reduce them a little to make a simple sauce with a touch of butter. I was actually a bit surprised that I had not done this earlier on. I had a new appreciation for reduced pan sauces over some meat.
I declared it the “year of the sauce” and started experimenting. The “year of the sauce” has actually been going on for about seven years now. However, I remained a steak purist.
But everything changed a few weeks ago, when my appreciation for sauces came full circle. I had the opportunity to dine at San Juan Oaks Golf Club in Hollister. We were given a selected menu with a choice of chicken, steak or fish. As much as I enjoyed the chicken that night, in hindsight, I should have chosen the steak. It was a New York Strip served with Hacienda Butter. Not knowing what Hacienda Butter was, my sister ordered it on the side.
The sauce peaked my curiosity. My sister was gracious and allowed me a sample of her steak so I could sample the sauce with it. I had no idea that this was to be the moment where my purist views on steak would change.
As soon as the little sample hit my mouth, I was rushed back to my childhood. I smiled, my eyes became wider and I asked for another little sample of steak with the sauce. The Hacienda Butter was superior to the well-known steak sauce brand of my youth. It was velvety smooth, didn’t overpower the flavor of the grilled steak and complemented the flavors of the medium rare New York Strip to perfection.
My next challenge was to find out what made the Hacienda Butter so special. I contacted David Varner, director of food and beverage for San Juan Oaks, and asked if I might have the recipe and share it with my readers. Executive chef Jose Ramirez was kind enough to share his recipe for Hacienda Butter. Thank you, chef Ramirez!
Varner also shared with me some information about San Juan Oaks’ steaks. The golf club’s restaurant only uses certified Angus beef, which has been aged for at least four weeks. There are a few local stores that carry aged certified Angus beef.
The recipe this week is for New York Strip with Hacienda Butter. The proportions are for one steak, but it may be increased accordingly.
Mitch L. Mariani is a self-taught amateur chef. Questions, comments and suggestions should be e-mailed to mi*******************@***oo.com. For tips and recipes, visit www.geocities.com/mixedgrillsouthvalley.
Grilled New York Strip with Hacienda Butter
From San Juan Oaks Golf Club executive chef Jose Ramirez
Serves 1
1 12-16-ounce New York strip steak
2 ounces butter, whole
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoons parsley, chopped
1/2 cup red wine
Splash of Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce
Splash of fresh lemon juice
1 ounce heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper, on steak for grilling and to taste in sauce
Step 1: In a small saucepan over medium heat, add butter, shallots and garlic. Saute until translucent.
Step 2: Add wine, lemon juice, mustard and Worcestershire sauce. Reduce by half.
Step 3: Add cream and parsley. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
Step 4: Cook steak to desired temperature, and top with butter sauce.
