In the greater San Francisco Bay Area, we are fortunate to have
an alphabet soup of land trusts, open space authorities and park
districts working together, so we don’t have to travel far to enjoy
nature’s solitude.
In the greater San Francisco Bay Area, we are fortunate to have an alphabet soup of land trusts, open space authorities and park districts working together, so we don’t have to travel far to enjoy nature’s solitude. And no wonder; there’s a lot to protect. Here at the edge of the continent, we sit astride the temperamental junction of two tectonic plates, where Mother Nature has folded the Bay Area into a landscape reaching from sea level to 4,360 feet, and where a 40-minute drive can often traverse a 30-degree change in temperature.
In the midst of all this diversity, the place that always captures our collective imagination is the coastline. Thanks to Peninsula Open Space Trust and the California Coastal Conservancy, we can now walk along a stunning chunk of coastline previously out of reach. After 25 years of cooperation from other agencies and neighboring landowners, the Cowell-Purisima Trail is finally open along a 3-mile stretch of cliffs and pocket beaches just south of Half Moon Bay.
A friend and I decided to go and investigate. Due to occasional chemical spraying on farmlands adjacent to the trail, the northern portion is closed weekdays from June through September. Since we wanted to walk the entire trail, we hooked up on a recent Saturday and set out.
At Half Moon Bay, we turned south off Highway 92 onto Highway 1 toward Santa Cruz. Three miles down the road, just past Dehoff Canyon Road, we pulled into the small and hidden parking lot for Cowell State Beach. Worries about a foggy day and limited views evaporated under calm and clear skies.
The trail’s first half mile is a straight line past rows of artichokes and Brussel sprouts out to the ocean. Beneath the spot where the trail first meets the cliff edge is a small pocket beach, the only accessible beach along the trail. Seeing the number of cars in the parking lot, I was a little concerned about how crowded the trail might be, but everyone was on the beach. We saw only a handful of people on the trail.
One of the trail’s highlights is the very first viewpoint here above the beach. This little point pokes out just enough to reveal great views up and down the coast. I was also surprised at the floral display here in August. Some huge species of bright red clarkia — apparently on steroids — stood proud and fresh as though just watered by spring rains.
We quickly crossed two bridges (and what bridges!) spanning wide creek beds, as the trail worked its way atop a series of rugged cliffs. Down below, the scenery changed at each fold in the coastline. Offshore rocks poking above the waves held scores of sun-bathing sea lions. Other recesses cradled tantalizing, but inaccessible, pocket beaches. The vista at the southern end of the trail is a worthy reward for the effort. Like a bookend to the viewpoint where we began, the point at the end of the trail nudges a bit further out for a wide and breathtaking view.
The trail is open to hikers and bikers and is wheelchair accessible. Horses and dogs are not allowed. While the northern portion of the trail is closed weekdays from June through September, the southern portion is open year round.
Thanks to everyone who worked to open this special bit of coastline to us all. The Cowell-Purisima Trail offers a special opportunity to stand at a majestic portion of the continent’s edge. I couldn’t help imagining coming again, when the fury of a winter storm makes landfall here.
