Baja California in Mexico is the most well-visited area by
Americans each year.
Baja California in Mexico is the most well-visited area by Americans each year. Many of the millions who visit go to enjoy the warm, sandy beaches, fish tacos, cerveza, golf and other tourist attractions. What is not well-known is that Baja California is home to the largest producer of wine in Mexico: L.A. Cetto.
L.A. Cetto lies in the fertile Guadalupe Valley about 2 1/2 hours southeast of Tijuana. It was founded in 1926 by an Italian immigrant named Don Angelo Cetto. The Cetto family started making port and sherry during the time of prohibition in the United States. As the business continued to grow, Don Angelo decided to purchase more land, and started producing red and white wines for local and international markets.
Production of the first varietals started in 1983. Currently, the winery produces about 12 different wines and exports them to 27 countries worldwide.
I first came into contact with L.A. Cetto when I was working for an international non-profit organization in the mid-1990s. The organization focused on programs that would empower and educate, two important tools needed when one wants to become self-sufficient. We offered programs in nutrition, health, literacy, bio-intensive agriculture, forestation and micro-enterprising.
One of my tasks was to help coordinate a program we called Development Education, a program that invited groups of U.S. citizens to join us for periods of time and learn firsthand about the community development we were involved with. We also explored the dynamics of the U.S./Mexico border.
My counterpart in all of this was a fellow named Adolfo. Originally from Guadalajara, he joined the organization about three years before I did. With a simple smile or handshake, Adolfo won your friendship instantly.
Our work brought us into communities that had no electricity, running water, sewer systems, paved roads or other basic infrastructure that we take for granted. Despite the many hardships, these communities defined themselves by their resilience, faithfulness and drive to work hard.
I always liked the fact that we could come into these communities as strangers but leave as friends. Like the schools, roads and water systems we would build together – tirelessly mixing tons of cement by hand in the hot sun, day after day – bonds of trust were built, too.
One time, we had a group down from Philadelphia, St. Joseph’s University. Being one of our favorite groups – one that had visited and supported us for years – Adolfo wanted to do something special. He wanted to take the group to L.A. Cetto for the day. I did not think this would fly with the Jesuit leadership on the trip.
“My friend, it is important that these students see some of the natural and cultural beauty of my country. I do not want them to see only the struggles and poverty,” Adolfo said at the time. The leaders agreed, and we jumped in our vans and headed to the winery the following day.
Most of the students had never tasted wine, let alone tour a state-of-the-art winery. While they were occupied, Mike (another co-worker), Adolfo and I started preparing a feast to go with the wine. We plated freshly baked bread, olives, papaya, apples, strawberries and assorted Mexican cheeses. When the tour was finished, the group came back to tables of food and many different wines to taste.
L.A. Cetto makes wines that have either a French or Italian influence. My personal favorite is their nebbiolo. Cetto produces the most nebbiolo in the world outside of Italy. In keeping with Italian wine-making tradition, the nebbiolo is aged 12-16 months in French oak, then ages another two years in bottle before it is released to the public. This dry, medium-bodied wine has hints of oak, vanilla, black currants and spice.
Their fume blanc is a great deal at $7 per bottle. Made from the sauvignon blanc grape, this wine is clean, crisp and full of tropical fruit.
We set up our picnic near L.A. Cetto’s outdoor entertainment center. Set amid the vines and overlooking the valley, it was about a picturesque as you could imagine.
While some students relaxed in the sun, others pretended to be “matadors and bulls” in Cetto’s own Plaza de Toros, or bull-fighting arena – young adults happy to be alive.
I went over and sat next to Adolfo, who was wiping his brow with a handkerchief and looking a bit worn out. I would often scold Adolfo, whose constant work and efforts to help others had put his own health at risk. At this point, I challenged him. “Slow down, and for once, do something for yourself,” I said. He replied, “No puedo, es para mi gente.” “I can’t, it’s for my people.”
The memories of L.A. Cetto that day, and Adolfo’s conviction and purpose, will be with me the rest of my life.
L.A. Cetto
Km. 73.5 Carretera Tecate El Sauzal
Valle de Guadalupe,
Baja California, Mexico
Tel. (646) 15-521-79
www.cettowines.com
upcoming Event
Leal Vineyards Wine Dinner
What: a wine dinner at Westside Grill in Gilroy
6:30pm Sept. 28
Cost: $65
For reservations, call the Westside Grill at
(408) 847-3800.
