If you have driven on Watsonville Road, there are acres of
vineyards planted and none more meticulously cared for than Dorcich
Vineyards in Gilroy. Folks interested in tasting some wine there
have always been deterred by a sign on the road that reads
”
No Winery on Site.
”
Well, all that is about to change.
If you have driven on Watsonville Road, there are acres of vineyards planted and none more meticulously cared for than Dorcich Vineyards in Gilroy. Folks interested in tasting some wine there have always been deterred by a sign on the road that reads “No Winery on Site.” Well, all that is about to change.
Owner Steve Dorcich has been in farming his entire life. Not even a stint as a successful offshore boat racer could keep Dorcich away from the peace and solitude he finds while working the land and his vineyards.
Located in Uvas Canyon, the 45 acres of vines are influenced by a coastal climate and warm summer days – all which lead to a long growing season. Dorcich planted a majority of the vineyard, which is comprised of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, zinfandel and chardonnay in the late 1980s.
Steve’s hard work and attention to detail earned a reputation throughout California as a master of producing high yields of wonderful fruit that is balanced with sugar, soil and acid. It was this reputation that brought Steve into contact with Jason Goelz, owner and winemaker of Sapid Wines.
Goelz had a dream of entering the wine industry, spurred on by his education in viticulture at Cal Poly State University.
First as a small lot winemaker, Goelz then started working for Dorcich as a consultant, sales and cellar manager. It was not too long after that these two friends realized their dreams were synchronized – Goelz wanted to start his own winery, but needed a consistent source of fruit that he could trust to make his style of wine. Dorcich was tired of dealing with so many wineries interested in buying his grapes, each one placing demands on how he managed the vines. “It wasn’t fun anymore,” Steve said. The harmony and expertise was there for the taking. Dorcich would continue his magic in the vineyard and Jason would take care of the rest.
The bones of a state-of-the-art wine facility are starting to come together for Goelz and Dorcich. New, hi-tech winemaking equipment is arriving every day. A 10,000-square-foot facility will house it all, bringing all aspects of Sapid Wines under one roof!
As we walked through the vines, getting a closer look at the fruit starting to change color, Steve and Jason mentioned how the vineyard is turning to more sustainable farming practices. “I am spraying less, composting more and using natural ground cover to attract the beneficial insects that will eat the harmful ones. Even though the vines could use some water now, I want to stress them a bit longer. This stress will make the fruit more concentrated. The plants react to what you give them,” Dorcich said with a smile.
“This concentrated fruit will allow me to make wines that are soft, velvety and have a rich texture to them. The investment in advanced machinery will allow us to have minimal contact with the grape. We plan on staying focused on the vineyard, pick smaller lots and allow the flavor profile to shine through,” Jason said.
I was invited to sit down for lunch with my new friends, but first Jason wanted to finish the tour of the winery and speak of other future plans these new partners have in mind.
While we were out canvassing the back acreage, Steve was busy grilling some fresh summer vegetables, including zucchini, assorted bell peppers, asparagus and eggplant. Chicken breast tenders were also grilled over mesquite, then tossed with fresh garlic, lemon and basil. Some steamed rice with almonds and crusty French bread were also part of our late afternoon feast. A creamy cheesecake was served for dessert.
My gracious hosts also poured two of three wines that Sapid currently has available, a 2005 chardonnay and a 2004 syrah.
The chardonnay ($14) was refreshingly crisp, with nice flavors of honey and cantaloupe. It was bottled from stainless steel and received no oak aging. It had nice acidity and its minerality went well with the vegetables.
The syrah was loaded with cherry, plum and a bit of earthiness. The controlled tannins left for a soft finish ($17).
It’s hard to say when things will be fully up and running, but Jason and Steve are working hard to make it happen quickly, perhaps as early as March.
Sapid (sap-id) is an adjective that is defined as being savory and pleasantly flavorful. That certainly fits the wines that are being produced. Sapid also is defined as being engaging, a word that certainly fits both Steve and Jason.
Cheers!
