As I mentioned last week, my kitchen resolution for this year is
to try more new things. Specifically, this week we are learning
about and cooking with the tomatillo, a green tomato-like vegetable
now found in most supermarkets.
As I mentioned last week, my kitchen resolution for this year is to try more new things. Specifically, this week we are learning about and cooking with the tomatillo, a green tomato-like vegetable now found in most supermarkets.
Distinguished from a tomato in appearance by its papery husk, the tomatillo is only a distant cousin of the ubiquitous red variety. According to the food Web site GourmetSleuth.com, the Aztecs domesticated the tomatillo probably as long ago as at least 800 B.C. The Aztec root word “tomatl” means something “round and plump.” The Aztec word for tomato (as we know the fruit) is xitomatl, and the husk tomato (tomatillo) was called miltomatl. Europeans frequently shortened both names to tomatl, creating the confusion that persists to this day.
In fact, both are members of the numerous and diverse nightshade family, which also includes tobacco, potatoes and eggplants. However, the tomatillo is much more closely related to the cape gooseberry, a similar but smaller plant also thought to have originated in Peru but now found mainly around the Cape of Good Hope and other parts of Africa.
As I set out to buy tomatillos for these recipes, I knew what they looked like but really didn’t know what else to expect. Luckily I ran into a knowledgeable produce man at the supermarket. He not only helped me find two ripe avocados, but he also chose the tomatillos for me.
Look for tomatillos that are no bigger than a golf ball and have a bright green color. Once they start to turn yellow, they are past their prime. They should be firm rather than soft, and they should be free of blemishes.
He also helped me in the chile department. For example, I knew that the serrano chiles in the first recipe were hotter than the jalapenos I’m more familiar with. He confirmed this, and also told me that a good way to reduce the heat in chiles is to cut them open, remove the seeds and pith (the pith contain a lot of the heat), place them in warm water and let them sit for several days. They’ll maintain their flavor, but the worst of the bite will be gone. “As sweet as a bell pepper,” he said.
I have yet to try that, but the ingredients he helped me find worked great in these recipes.
I was suspicious of this first one because it contains few of the usual guacamole “necessities” such as cumin, chili powder, garlic, or lime or lemon juice. Its flavor is in fact milder and mellower but, if anything, it brings out even more of the avocados’ subtle flavor.
Charred Tomatillo Guacamole
adapted from the Gourmet Cookbook, edited by Ruth Reichl; Houghton Mifflin Co. 2004.
6 ounces (about 6) tomatillos, husked and rinsed
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped
3 to 4 serrano chiles, seeded and finely chopped (I only used 2)
1/2 c. finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper
2 large, firm but ripe Hass avocados
Step 1: Preheat oven to 375 degrees . Place husked tomatillos on a shallow baking pan and roast for 20 minutes; turn over and roast for another 5.
Step 2: Stir together onion, chiles, cilantro, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Add tomatillos two at a time, mashing with a fork to form a coarse paste.
Step 3: Pit and peel avocados. Add avocados to mixture and mash until incorporated but still chunky. Serve with corn chips.
Mexican Fiesta Soup With Roasted Tomatillo and Cilantro Pesto
(adapted from Marthastewart.com)
I substituted a carrot-rich vegetable stock for the chicken stock in this recipe, and it imparted a beautiful red-orange color. The corn, chiles, cilantro and tomatoes added to the festive look.
4 tomatillos, peeled and rinsed
2/3 cup fresh cilantro leaves, packed, rinsed well
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 Tbs. freshly squeezed lime juice
1 small white onion, diced
1 jalapeño, diced, plus more sliced for garnish (optional)
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1 28 1/2-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes (about 8 tomatoes), drained and crushed
3 ears corn, quartered (I used half a package of frozen corn)
4 cups homemade or low-sodium canned chicken stock, skimmed of fat
Freshly ground pepper
1/2 ripe avocado, pitted, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
Nonstick cooking spray (I used about a Tbs. of olive oil)
Step 1: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place tomatillos on a small rimmed baking sheet. Roast in oven, turning once midway through, until they are softened and slightly charred, about 25 minutes.
Step 2: Remove from oven, and let cool slightly. Transfer to a bowl and add cilantro, one garlic clove and lime juice. Combine well. You could also puree in a food processor for a smoother sauce.
Step 3: Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large saucepan. Add onion, remaining garlic clove, and diced jalapeño; cook, stirring occasionally, over medium heat until onion is softened, about 7 minutes. Add cumin, tomatoes, corn and vegetable stock. Bring liquid to a boil; reduce heat and simmer until vegetables are tender, 12 to 15 minutes.
Step : Remove from heat; stir in 3 Tbs. reserved tomatillo mixture, and season with pepper. Add sliced avocado. Ladle into serving bowls; garnish with jalapeño slices, if desired. Serve with remaining tomatillo pesto.
