When you shop for wine, you may have noticed a relatively new
phenomenon taking place with wine labels today.
When you shop for wine, you may have noticed a relatively new phenomenon taking place with wine labels today.
A recent report from AC Nielsen shows that approximately 17 percent of table wine brands that have been launched in the past few years have been branded around an animal or containing the picture of one on the label.
Nicknamed “critter” wines, this has opened up a whole new marketing strategy for wineries that want their wines to be discovered by a new generation of wine drinkers. The fun, calming effect of an animal on the label will often entice the consumer to purchase the product, although inevitably it is what’s in the bottle that will bring them back.
Yellow Tail, a brand of wine produced by Casella Wines in Yenda, Australia, has used the image of a yellow-footed rock wallaby to make it the No. 1 imported wine to the United States. This was achieved in three years by offering different varietals, low prices and the easy identifiable label.
I heard a bark that Matt Oetinger, owner and winemaker at Fernwood Cellars, was coming out with two wines called “il Cane” – Italian for “the dog.” Because I am a dog-lover, and perpetrate that I am a dog-whisperer along the lines of Cesar Millan, I had to check this out first hand!
Fernwood Cellars has gained a lot of respect locally and nationally for the wines they are producing, but wanting to be a bit whimsical and irreverent, Oetinger felt compelled to make these two Italian-style wines. Oetinger recalls, “Guys were telling me that this style would not work and that there was no market for domestic Barberas and Sangioveses. I guess I wanted to challenge myself and prove them wrong. This decision fits our nonconforming view of winemaking.” The naming of the label is a little tongue-in-cheek. “People refer to these wines as being the “dogs of the wine world” – hence the name,” Matt said.
The 2005 Barbera comes from the Webb Family Vineyard that is nestled in the east foothills of Gilroy. Lucy, the beloved miniature schnauzer of the Oetinger family, graces the label on this wine.
Matt said he had the most fun describing the wine on the back labels, including this homage: “This Barbera has some attitude, a lot of spunk and, well, a special place in our hearts. Just like our schnauzer, Lucy.”
This wine was nicely balanced with berry fruit, soft tannins and good acidity. This balance allows this wine to be friendly with a lot of different foods, but works best with a tomato-based pasta or pizza.
Taking my own advice, I enjoyed a glass with a thin crust pizza the other night and found something else about the “il Cane” – medicinally, it helped heal the seared flesh on the roof of my mouth, caused by the hot pizza. Interestingly, I warned my dinner companion to be careful and let the pizza cool a bit. She heeded my advice, but I did not. When will I learn?
The 2005 Sangiovese was a different animal, not only with the label, but with the taste and texture of the wine.
This label shows a picture of another Fernwood Cellars winery dog, the late Rhodesian ridgeback, Jack.
The sangiovese was blended with a small percentage of merlot and cabernet sauvignon. This blending allows this full-bodied wine to show rich fruit flavors and tannins, yet still remain true to the characteristics of sangiovese – a hint of earthiness with some spice.
These limited production wines are currently available to Fernwood Cellars club members, but some will be made available to the public after July 15.
Oetinger is hoping to continue this “pet project” next year, depending on how people respond to these wines. “When you are working by yourself, in a slightly isolated location, you sometimes get tunnel vision. I want to be sure we are driving down the right road as we continue having fun making great wine,” Matt said.
Franz Kafka once said “All knowledge, the totality of all questions and all answers, is contained in the dog.”
Lucy, Jack and I agree!
Cheers!
