If you ask most people, they probably do not know
– let alone have tried – any wines from Austria. Austrian wines
have often been overshadowed by their German neighbors to the
north, yet after 20 years of pronounced efforts in production and
quality, the wines are finally getting the respect they
deserve.
If you ask most people, they probably do not know – let alone have tried – any wines from Austria. Austrian wines have often been overshadowed by their German neighbors to the north, yet after 20 years of pronounced efforts in production and quality, the wines are finally getting the respect they deserve.
Almost 70 percent of the grapes grown in Austria are white varietals, the most abundant being gruner veltliner. The name of the grape is unique, almost sounding more like a train or plane. These wines are mistakenly confused with Riesling, for veltliner tends to be crisper, dry and more acidic.
I wanted to be introduced properly to gruner veltliner, so we gathered some friends, some food and a few bottles of this unique wine.
We kicked off the evening with some summer sausage, water crackers, dry Jack cheese and some slightly steamed green beans.
The first gruner veltliner (GV) was a 2005 Summerer – Steinhaus. The wine was almost a cross between a sauvignon blanc and a Chablis. The crispness and acidity were present, with very little fruit. I also noticed for the first time that all Austrian wines have the national flag on the top of the foil capsule, a symbol of pride for their country and their wine.
The next wine was a 2005 Ott – Fass 4. The Ott was racy and minerally – you could almost taste the chalky soil from where the vines grew. Both the Summerer and Ott were less than $20 and very refreshing on a summer evening.
Veltliner is meant to be drunk young, and while it could be laid down for up to 10 years, it will not evolve or devolve in that time frame.
The final veltliner came from the esteemed winery Schloss Gobelsburger, a 2004 “Tradition.” While I rarely meet food or wine that I do not like, this wine, priced at $35 per bottle, was my least favorite. Austere, oily and chalk full of minerals, it was not bad – it just did not refresh like the others.
We were going to move into another two courses, each paired with one veltliner.
The second course consisted of garden tomatoes that were diced along with cucumbers and fresh mozzarella. Basil, lime juice, salt, pepper and oil olive were added and tossed with the ingredients to make a salad-soup. The acidity in the dressing and in the tomatoes went well with the 2005 Brundlmayer – Kamptaler. Willi Brundlmayer is a person that has elevated the craft of wine making to new level, and his eponymous winery or weingut, is considered one of the best for gruner veltliner (and Rieslings.) The Kamptaler, coming from younger vines, was a wine that had refined fruit and balanced acidity. You could sense an infinitesimal sweetness, like some one had put a few drops of honey in the bottle. Veltliners are not only low in price, but low in alcohol, averaging around 12.5 percent.
The last course was a seafood course, one in which jumbo shrimp was peeled and marinated for a short time in lime juice, chopped garlic, Tapatio hot sauce and a Dijon vinegar. After 30 minutes, the shrimp were skewered and grilled over high heat for a few minutes. The shrimp was brushed with extra virgin olive oil to prevent sticking and over-cooking. The shrimp was served along side scallions that were grilled until a smoky char was left on the outside.
Another Brundlmayer was featured, a 2005 Berg-Vogelsang ($23). The Berg-Vogelsang came from older vines, ones that imparted a richer, more aromatic wine. What is amazing to me every time it reveals itself is the contrast that can be seen in wines that are basically from the same grape and same place – yet entirely different wines are produced.
Never underestimate the adventure of discovering something new and the thrill you will have when you share it with others.
Cheers!
