Sometimes you need to get out of your epicurean comfort zone to
experience something different and delicious.
Sometimes you need to get out of your epicurean comfort zone to experience something different and delicious. Such was the case when we ventured to Matxain Etxea, a Basque restaurant on the corner of Fourth and Washington streets in San Juan Bautista. Basque cuisine is rustic and hearty, created to sustain the sheepherders who lived in the Pyranees Mountains on the border of France and Spain.
Matxain Etxea is celebrating its fourth year in San Juan Bautista, located in a small, older house with a comfortable porch and large back patio-perfect for dining in warm weather under its large, umbrella-covered tables. The restaurant seats about 40 inside, and is brightly decorated with posters, maps and other Basque cultural items. It was a cold, damp evening but we were immediately warmed by the greeting from our hostess/server, who was obviously part of the family who owned the restaurant. She gave us our menus and, upon learning this was our first visit, explained the various ordering options.
The most popular menu choice is the Traditional Family Style ($19.95/person). When one thinks of Basque restaurants, this comes to mind. It’s a lot of good, simple food served in large bowls so each diner can help themselves. Each person chooses what type of meat they want but, other than that, the menu is set.
Another option is to choose the meats from an “A La Carte” menu, which includes two side orders. The choices include lamb in various forms, three steak options, pork chops, salmon and chicken breast. Prices range from $19.95 for the ribeye steak to $13.95 for the chicken, pork or the lamb shank. The last option is to order one of the “Chef’s Specials” which are for the more adventurous diner. These include such Basque favorites as Untxikia, which is rabbit prepared in white wine sauce ($14.85), ox tail stew ($15.85) and Ancas de Rana – frog legs fried in olive oil and garlic ($16.85). These dishes come with soup and salad only.
Since this was our first experience, we chose the first option. My husband selected the steak, which was a flavorful, marinated ribeye. I decided on the chicken breast, which had been marinated in garlic and parsley then sauteed in olive oil. Once our orders were placed, the food started arriving. A bottle of the house red wine and a basket of fresh bread appeared first. The house red, which was included with the meal, is a medium bodied, fruity, low-alcohol wine which was a great enhancement to the rustic style of the food. Two large bowls of soup were next – one being a thick lentil soup with pieces of smoked meat throughout, and the other was tomato-based with pasta, cabbage and onions. Either would have been wonderful by itself but the Basque way is to mix the two to your personal preference.
On this cold night, the soup, bread and wine were absolutely perfect. That, however, was just the beginning! We were almost done with the soup when our sweet waitress brought a bowl of simple salad. Fresh Romaine leaves were torn and dressed with top-quality olive oil and a splash of vinegar. After the heavy and satisfying soup, this salad was a wonderful balance. We were still nibbling on that when a fragrant platter of paella was placed on the table. This was a “side dish” type of paella and I didn’t sense any of the characteristic saffron in the rice.
However, there were two large, fresh mussels on the top, as well as shrimp, chicken and chorizo sausage mixed with the lightly seasoned rice. By this time we were getting quite full, and the main course was still being prepared. Our entrees arrived, fresh from the grill, atop a large plate of steak-cut french fries. Both of our meat selections were tender and juicy, and prepared simply but with great care. Our stomachs were full and we were happy!
But wait, there’s more! Yes, dessert and coffee are included with the meal. Our waitress told us that we had to try her mama’s flan, so who were we to argue? We received two small, chilled dishes of a tasty and dense custard. While the flavor was rich with caramel, the texture was a bit grainy; not the smooth flan we’re used to. The sweet flavor, though, was a nice ending to a delicious meal.
So, the next time you feel a bit adventurous, head to San Juan Bautista and visit Matxain Etxea. If you go on a Thursday evening, you’ll be treated to live music and, on the second Thursday of each month, there is Flamenco dancing. Whenever you go, you’ll enjoy a simple, hearty meal served by warm and friendly people in a bright environment. Bon appetit!
Sara Leigh has lived in Morgan Hill for 26 years with her husband and two sons, who are now away at college. She loves food and wine, and keeps all the delicious calories in check by avid race-walking. Reach her at
ca*******@ho*****.com
. All reviews for The Dish are anonymous, and all reviewers’ meals are paid for by South Valley Newspapers.
