It Sounds Corny, but these Kernels are the Best

One of the consolations of growing up in the muggy Midwest was
the availability of really sweet sweet corn. We grew some in our
back yard, and many people still do, because it really is best when
cooked immediately after being pulled from the stalk.
One of the consolations of growing up in the muggy Midwest was the availability of really sweet sweet corn. We grew some in our back yard, and many people still do, because it really is best when cooked immediately after being pulled from the stalk.

Corn was the staple food of indigenous Americans, having been developed from a grass known as “teosinte.” The numerous differences between corn as we know it and this prehistoric grass are testament to the selective breeding abilities of early Mesoamericans.

The result is a grain-bearing plant unlike any other found in nature or among the cultivated plants in that it no longer has the ability to disperse seeds and produce offspring.

 Non-sweet corn is used as a fodder crop, ground for cornmeal, grits and polenta. It is the basis of cornstarch, corn syrup (which finds its way into many processed foods) and a lot of other industrial uses.

Sweet corn, while available most of the year, is at its best after growing in the heat for several weeks. This summer, with its record temperatures, has already produced some delicious ears from the Hollister Farmers Market, and corn is also very reasonably priced in the supermarkets.

In choosing corn, it is not necessary to pull back the husks to look at the kernels; it only makes a mess for the grocer to clean up. The main things to look for are fresh-looking, moist silks and a moist cut end. Once the silks become mainly brown and dry, the corn has probably been sitting around past the delicious point.

In the Midwest, people compete to claim the wildest extremes of rushing the fresh corn from the stalk to the cooking pot in the shortest time: boiling the water before the corn is picked; riding a bicycle or skateboard to the corn patch; setting up a propane burner and boiling the water right in the garden. This silliness has its basis in the fact that the sugars in sweet corn do degenerate into starches quickly once the corn is picked.

The main lesson for us is that if you find good, fresh-looking corn and buy extra, you should cook it all immediately and freeze any leftovers for use in another recipe.

The most basic method for cooking fresh corn is to bring a large kettle of lightly salted water to a boil. While the water is heating, remove the husks and silks from the corn. Drop the corn into the boiling water and set a timer for five minutes.

When the timer goes off, drain the corn, rinse under cold water to stop the cooking, and eat. The usual accompaniments are butter, salt and pepper. Some people use a squeeze of lime. I prefer to leave the butter off and just enjoy the juicy kernels with a bit of black pepper.

Here is an alternative method that a reader sent to the Epicurious.com Web site: “… boil water, 2 Tablespoons sugar, 2 Tablespoons vinegar. Put corn in the boiling water. Cover, take off the burner. Eat it in seven minutes. My son-in-law was raised in corn country. I cooked the corn he brought this way – he couldn’t believe it. It’s the only way he’ll cook corn now. He leaves the salt shaker on the table.”

If you don’t want to heat up the kitchen by boiling a big pot of water, it’s also possible to microwave sweet corn or cook it on an outdoor grill.

Here is a simple method for the microwave, also from Epicurious.com:

“Corn should be selected with fresh green husks. Place corn on turntable of microwave, with about a 1-inch space between. Cook no more than four ears at a time on high setting. Cook one ear for six minutes, two ears 10 minutes and four ears 15 to 17 minutes or until tender. When corn has finished cooking, let cool a few minutes, then using a towel to protect your hands, hold corn and peel back the husks, the silks will be easy to remove. Salt and butter the ears at this time. The husks may be pulled back over the ear to keep warm or completely remove husks and serve.”

The following method for grilling corn is adapted from Marthastewart.com:

Grilled Corn with Lime and Cheese

Serves four

4 ears of corn (or more; who can eat just one?)

2 Tablespoons  mayonnaise

1 Tablespoons fresh lime juice

1/8 teaspoon chili powder

2 ounces finely grated feta cheese

Step 1:  Heat grill to high. Soak corn in cold water, turning occasionally, 10 minutes. Transfer to grill. Cover; cook, turning, until husks are charred, 10 minutes. Remove.

Step 2: Using a kitchen towel, pull back husks; remove and discard corn silks. Return corn to grill (with husks pulled back and off heat). Cover; cook, turning, until kernels are charred in spots, 10 to 15 minutes.

Step 3: Combine reduced-fat mayonnaise, lime juice and chili powder; brush on cooked corn. Dust with finely grated feta cheese. Season with coarse salt; serve with lime wedges.

This next recipe is a good way to use some previously cooked corn, also from Marthastewart.com.

Summer Corn Chowder

Serves four

4 ounces bacon, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 small onion, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice (1 cup)

2 ribs celery, strings removed, cut into 1/2-inch dice (3/4 cup)

8 sprigs fresh thyme

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 cups homemade chicken stock , or canned low-sodium chicken broth, skimmed of fat

3 ears yellow corn, kernels removed (about 2 1/2 cups) (If using already-cooked corn, add it at the end with the half-and-half.)

5 ounces small fingerling potatoes, or other “new” potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices

1 poblano chile, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 1/2 cups half-and-half

Step 1:  Place bacon in a small stockpot over medium-high heat. Cook bacon, stirring occasionally, until it is deep golden brown and all the fat has been rendered, about four minutes. Remove bacon with a slotted spoon, then transfer to paper towels to drain, and set aside. Discard all but 2 tablespoons bacon fat.

Step 2:  Add diced onion, celery, thyme, and salt and pepper to taste to stockpot; cook over medium-low heat until translucent, about 8 minutes. Add stock; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, and simmer 15 minutes.

Step 3: Add corn, potato slices and poblano chile; cook until potatoes are tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat. Using a slotted spoon, remove and discard thyme. Add half-and-half, and simmer until soup is hot. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Ladle soup into soup bowls, and garnish with bacon. Serve immediately.