Usually I don’t review a restaurant if it’s brand new or if it
recently came under new ownership.
Usually I don’t review a restaurant if it’s brand new or if it recently came under new ownership. However, I was surprised to learn when I entered The Cutting Horse in San Juan Bautista that they had (very) recently changed hands. And since this is a long-lived and well-established restaurant (and a favorite of yours truly), I decided to go ahead.
Fortunately, the very unique interior of this former 19th century brothel hasn’t changed at all. You feel as though you’ve stepped back in time to the days when the South Valley was largely ranches and orchards. Hundreds of brands from various local ranches mark the walls, amid cowboy pictures and other Western paraphernalia.
We arrived at the peak of the dinner rush on a Friday, but having made reservations, we were shown immediately to a comfy leather banquette. We had brought a nice bottle of White Crane Meritage to have with our dinner (corkage fee is $10), so we asked that it be opened. Our host said he would take care of it, then left and wasn’t seen for quite a while.
In the meantime, we studied our menus. If you’re looking for a steak dinner, this is the place. Most of the menu was comprised of various cuts of black angus beef, with just a smattering of chicken dishes (three on the menu) and fish. We were a little dismayed to discover that the prices had increased significantly since our last visit and that the entrees no longer included both soup and salad.
Since we were there on a Friday evening, I was able to take advantage of my occasional craving for prime rib. This choice cut ($27.50 for 12 ounces; $29.95 for 16 ounces) is only available on Friday and Saturday nights. My husband couldn’t resist the bacon-wrapped filet ($27.50 for 6 ounces), and one of our dining companions decided on the flat-iron steak ($24.50 for 8 ounces). Our renegade friend broke tradition and ordered the fish special, which was a filet of sole stuffed with baby shrimp and fresh tomatoes ($17.95). All entrees are served with the house salad (or a Caesar for $1.50 extra), choice of potato, and a small cappuccino drink after the meal (a Cutting Horse tradition).
Once we decided on our meals, we sat back and waited – and waited – for our server. We found out later that the restaurant was understaffed that evening, and there were only two wait staff to serve the entire restaurant. Our waitress, when she arrived, was personable and apologetic, but the service level detracted from an otherwise pleasant dining experience.
We also decided to start with a bottle of Ventana Gold Stripe Chardonnay ($27.50). The Cutting Horse offers a nice wine list that reflects the great wines of Monterey County, and there are several choices by the glass.
After an interval, our salads arrived. Despite the wait, this was one of the best house salads I’ve had in recent memory. The chilled plate was piled high with a variety of mixed greens, red cabbage and shredded carrots, all crisp and nicely coated with the restaurant’s garlic ranch dressing.
The entrees we had chosen received mixed reviews at our table. The best of the four was the flat-iron steak, tender and pink with a nice garlic seasoning put on before grilling. The stuffed sole was also very popular, with a nicely balanced stuffing and fresh taste.
Unfortunately, both the prime rib and bacon-wrapped filet fell below expectations. My husband’s filet was cooked way beyond the medium rare he’d ordered, and although tasty, it didn’t have any pink at all.
My prime rib was cooked perfectly but it lacked taste, even when dipped in the demi-glace my husband had ordered ($2.50 extra). A highlight, however, was the baked potato, which had been oiled and sprinkled with sea salt before baking.
We all needed a little something sweet after our dinner, so we chose two desserts from the menu. I couldn’t pass up the bread pudding ($5.50), which was baked with fresh blueberries and topped with caramel sauce. It was served nice and warm and earned a “thumbs-up” from all at our table.
We balanced this with their chocolate cake ($5), a triple-layer dark cake with chocolate fudge frosting. It could have been a little moister, but the flavor was excellent. The desserts paired well with the complementary cappuccino drink, served in small shot glasses.
Now I know why I like to give new restaurants (including new ownership of old restaurants) a chance to smooth out the rough spots before reviewing. I look forward to returning in about six months to see if the service level has improved and the kitchen details smoothed out. Stay tuned. Bon appetit!
Sara Leigh has lived in Morgan Hill for 26 years with her husband and two sons, who are now away at college. She loves food and wine, and keeps all the delicious calories in check by avid race-walking. Reach her at [email protected]. All reviews for The Dish are anonymous, and all reviewers’ meals are paid for by South Valley Newspapers.
