I was out dining with friends last week. As we perused the menu
for food selections, the server brought over a wine list to our
table. A few people had brought some bottles to dinner, and we
wanted to order a couple from the restaurant too.
I was out dining with friends last week. As we perused the menu for food selections, the server brought over a wine list to our table. A few people had brought some bottles to dinner, and we wanted to order a couple from the restaurant too.
As the wine list was passed around, I was tempted to take a peek. I enjoy seeing what is being offered, but I resisted. Others were in charge of ordering the wine.
A strange quirk I have – and there are a few – is requesting that someone at the table order my food for me. I cannot really think of anything I would not eat, nor enjoy. However, I still get in ruts about ordering for myself. So, when someone orders for me, it is like getting a present on my birthday – I am surprised and elated.
After excusing myself from the table to wash up, I returned to find the food had been ordered and the first wine had already been opened. As the bottle was being passed to me, others were oohing and aahing after their first sip, which is always a good sign.
The wine causing all this pleasure was the 2005 Santa Cruz Mountains estate chardonnay – Vanumanutagi Vineyard from Fernwood Cellars. I had to find out more and contacted winemaker and owner Matt Oetinger to help me out.
Vanumanutagi is Samoan for “valley of the singing birds” and was the name in 1900 that the widow of Robert Louis Stevenson, Fanny, chose to call the property where the grapes are now sourced.
According to Matt, his great grandfather once owned 400 acres of what was then known at the Redwood Retreat Ranch, before it was parceled and some of it sold to the Stevenson family. Current owner Leo Ware planted vines back in 1981 and has seen to it that the property and vines are cared for meticulously.
As I walked with Matt near the Stevenson house, originally built in 1901 and remodeled to its present incarnation in 1938, he pointed out some interesting things about the property and the vineyards.
“There’s a grotto used for entertaining guests that was hand-built by my grandfather, using natural stones he found in the hillsides. No cement was used and it stands as solid today as it was a century ago. Even though we own only a small portion of what my family originally did, we have a vested interest in maintaining the history and charm of this place. On a high hillside, there’s a small family cemetery that is still ours.”
The Vanumanutagi chardonnay comes from blocks of vines romantically titled Treasure Island and Jekyll & Hyde. “The Vanumanutagi chardonnay ripens late. This extended hang-time gives the wine increased complexity, resulting in a wine that is structured, has layers of soft fruit, a bit of buttery-ness and mellow acidity.”
Oetinger also pointed out some new vines that had been planted on a hillside called Vaillima. Wanting to get a closer look, Matt drove me part-way up the hill and we proceeded to walk through the vineyard.
“We planted two acres of cabernet sauvignon and three acres of syrah. The small variations in topography allow these plantings to bake all summer during the day and enjoy the cool breezes in the morning and evenings.”
As we reached the summit of the vineyard, I was a bit winded. “This is the epitome of hillside farming. It is a lot more work and more money to produce grapes here. You produce less fruit, but better quality fruit. After a few times up and down the rows, I can easily see why a winery might charge more for certain bottles of their wine.
The summit also provided a great view of the surrounding valleys. The clear blue sky did not have a cloud to be seen. “Whose office looks like this?” Matt said with fun grin.
I was about to answer “yours does” when my stomach started growling. Without any wind, it was the only sound to be heard in the vicinity. We both laughed at my embarrassment.
“Our goal is to bring a well-deserved and renewed level of awareness to the wine making region, create unique and distinctive wines that have stories and histories that date back generations,” Oetinger said.
The Vanumanutagi chardonnay, and other wines, can be purchased by calling (408) 848-0611 or at www.fernwoodcellars.com
Cheers!
