All Thai'd up

Sweet, spicy, sour and salty. Four simple properties that, when
combined in particular ways, can bestow explosions of taste to
those willing to try.
In Thai cuisine, sauces, herbs, spices and meats balance each
other to create healthy, fresh and flavorful meals. Bringing the
tradition of Thai food to a new place was part of the reason John
Chan, 40, moved from his native Thailand to San Jose about five
years ago.
Sweet, spicy, sour and salty. Four simple properties that, when combined in particular ways, can bestow explosions of taste to those willing to try.

In Thai cuisine, sauces, herbs, spices and meats balance each other to create healthy, fresh and flavorful meals. Bringing the tradition of Thai food to a new place was part of the reason John Chan, 40, moved from his native Thailand to San Jose about five years ago.

Before that, he had spent more than 10 years learning and improving his ability to cook. He and his wife, Nicole Jeang, also 40, are the owners and chefs at the King and I, a Thai restaurant in north Morgan Hill.

The menu showcases several traditional Thai dishes including chicken satay for $5.95, basil with shrimp for $8.95 and five different kinds of curry dishes that range from $6.95 to $7.95. The restaurant also offers a few Chinese meals, such as sweet-and-sour chicken and a chicken vegetable bowl, primarily for children who might find Thai cooking a bit spicy.

Thai cooking is known for its herbs and spices – such as lemongrass and kaffir lime – that, besides being tasty, offer a variety of health benefits. Peanuts, coconut oil and coconut milk also are common ingredients, especially in Thai curries.

Although there is a larger Thai population in southern California – especially Los Angeles, Chan said – he and Jeang preferred the more temperate climate and less congested feel of San Jose, where they live.

“You never really see clear skies in Los Angeles. Too many buildings,” Chan said.

To take advantage of the weather and views, the King and I features an open-air patio and courtyard, an architectural mainstay of many establishments in Thailand, where the weather generally is warm year-round.

While Chan takes on the main responsibilities as chef, Jeang serves mostly on the front end, greeting and talking with customers. Growing up as the third-oldest child in her family, Jeang said she became accustomed at an early age to cooking and serving others, something she now says she truly enjoys.

“I like to help people. I love to talk and to cook, so this is a great job for me,” she said.

Basil dishes and curry dishes top both Chan and Jeang’s list of favorites to cook and to eat. For dessert, Chan recommended coconut balls wrapped with banana leaves – two for $1.95 – or the coconut egg custard for $3.95.

“Most of the desserts have coconut in them,” he said. “That’s common in Thailand. It has that tropical, sweet taste.”

Also staples in Thailand are Thai coffee and Thai iced tea, both of which Chan and Jeang make with fresh cream.

“Some people like to use the condensed milk because it’s easier to work with,” Chan said. “But the cream gives it a better flavor.”

The King and I is located at 19500 Monterey St. in Morgan Hill. Hours are 11:30am to 2:30pm and 5pm to 9:30pm Tuesday to Friday, and noon to 9:30pm Saturday and Sunday. The restaurant is closed Mondays. Take-out and catering are available. Call (408) 782-6388.

If you’d like to prepare Thai food at home, here’s a basic recipe for a popular Thai dish, courtesy of the Food Network.

Some of the more obscure ingredients might not be available in traditional grocery stores. Check Asian food markets or health-food stores.

Stir-Fried Thai Noodles (Pad Thai)

8 ounces dried wide rice noodles

1/4 cup fish sauce

3 Tbs. tamarind juice

2 Tbs. sugar

3 Tbs. peanut oil

1 1/2 pounds large shrimp, peeled with tails on

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 shallots, sliced

1 fresh red chile, sliced

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 cup fresh bean sprouts

1/2 cup chopped unsalted roasted peanuts

1 lime, cut into small wedges

1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves

Step 1: Soak the dried rice noodles in cool or lukewarm water for 30 minutes, or until they’re limp but still firm to the touch; later cooking in the wok will soften them more. Drain the noodles thoroughly in a colander and set aside while preparing the other ingredients.

Step 2: In a small bowl, mix the fish sauce, tamarind juice and sugar; stir well to melt the sugar. Taste and adjust flavors to the desired combination of salty, sour and sweet.

Step 3: Heat a wok over medium-high heat until it is smoking hot. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil and quickly stir-fry the shrimp until they turn pink and are almost cooked through; 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the shrimp to a plate and cover to keep warm.

Step 4: Add the remaining oil to the wok and toss in the garlic, shallots and chile; stir-fry for 30 seconds. Push the garlic and shallots to one side of the wok and pour the egg into the center. Scramble the egg lightly until set, breaking it up into pieces with a spatula. Add the drained noodles to the wok, stirring and tossing quickly with 2 spatulas to separate the strands. Pour in the fish sauce mixture, tossing well to coat the noodles and keep them from sticking (if the noodles are still too firm, drizzle with 1 to 2 tablespoons of water to help them cook).

Step 5: When the noodles are in good shape, toss in 1/2 of the bean sprouts and peanuts; save the remaining for garnish. Continue to stir-fry, to combine. Return the shrimp to the wok and toss the pad Thai together to warm everything through. Serve the pad Thai on a platter, pile the remaining bean sprouts and peanuts on one side of the dish and garnish with the lime wedges and cilantro.

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